The Lardo di Colonnata IGP, with its intense flavor, aromas, and tenderness, is today considered one of the most renowned and sought-after cured meats in Italy. Within its simplicity lies true excellence, a genuine gem of Tuscany! But what makes this lardo so special? How is it prepared, seasoned, and aged? You're about to discover why this product is both a protected geographical indication and a Slow Food Presidia.
First of all, the where: the Lardo di Colonnata IGP gets its name because it comes from Colonnata, which is a hamlet in the municipality of Massa Carrara, located 500 meters above sea level in the Apuan Alps. Slow Food has recognized 16 producers within the Presidia, located in the historical center of Colonnata, where this delicious cured meat specialty is produced, and only they, according to the Slow Food association, can use the designation "Lardo di Colonnata".
It is believed that the practice of producing this type of lardo dates back to the time of the Ancient Romans or the Lombards. The fact is that it is the Carrara marble that has historically influenced this product: the same I.G.P. regulations recognize the importance of this food in the diet of the historical "quarrymen" who have been engaged in extracting the famous material since the 18th century. Since 2000, there has been a Slow Food Presidia that defends its traditional production method, while it has been IGP since 2004, thus ensuring a European legislative protection that safeguards it. But how is it made?
The IGP regulations require the use of pork meat from certain Italian regions (Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Lombardy, Piedmont, Umbria, Marche, Lazio, and Molise). This lardo is nothing more than a blend of cuts from the pig's belly, which must then be sprinkled with sea salt, fresh rosemary, ground black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, and sage before being placed one on top of the other in closed Carrara marble tubs, called conche, previously rubbed inside with garlic cloves. Once the lid is closed, the lardo ages together with the salt and layers of aromas for at least 6 months before being packaged and sold.
Nutritionally, the lardo di Colonnata is a great source of fats (99 grams of product per 100), one-third of which are saturated fats. It has a very high caloric content, as well as cholesterol. There is no better pairing than that with a warm homemade bread, capable of enhancing its qualities, namely its softness and aroma. A sublime flavor experience that could be best complemented with an intense red wine like Chianti or an Amarone. Moreover, the salty note and the rosemary pair perfectly with honey and dried fruits (like prunes, for example) for rustic and impactful appetizers.
The Lardo di Colonnata is the flagship product of a class of cured meats that also includes other excellent representatives. Among them, we remember the Lardo di Arnad, typical of the Valle d'Aosta and the town of Arnad, which has unique technical specifications and procedures for its production. It is obtained only from the shoulder of pigs weighing at least 160 kg and at least 9 months old. This lardo is preserved in "doils", chestnut wood forms with special joints that do not allow brine to escape. It is placed in such containers or glass containers with layers of salt and boiled water with typical local spices. It is left like this for a year and then packaged.
There is also another excellence in Italy: the Lardo di Soave, which is produced in the homonymous locality in the province of Verona. It is distinguished from the more classic Colonnata or Arnad for its sweetness and elegance. A very soft mass is left to age for a few months, depending on the humidity level and the size of the product, with local aromatic herbs and spices. Additionally, it is a product with a beautiful marbling of flavorful lean meat that gives a lovely pink color to the product.
In short: enjoy your meal! But ...don't overdo it.
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