When it is time for Lent in Verona, the tradition is that families prepare renga with polenta. More specifically, this recipe comes from Parona, a suburb of the city of Verona facing the Adige River, which had, in the past, strategic importance as a true port hub for goods arriving from northern Europe via the river. We at Spaghetti & Mandolino care about traditions and since we have recently entered the period of Lent, we thought to take this opportunity to talk about this rustic and ancient humble Veronese dish, full of flavor, enticing, and deliciously savory.
Since the 13th century, Parona has been of great commercial importance to the city of Verona. Since the days of barter, the herring was used by the boatmen to pay bills at the inns and taverns of Parona. It was in this way that the blue fish landed on the banks of the Adige. Then, it became customary that on Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent, smoked herring served with polenta was prepared for sale in the square, which, as a humble dish, was affordable even for less wealthy families and, being lean and nutritious, was perfect for the pre-Easter season when fatty foods were not allowed.
Even today, it is customary for many Veronese families to prepare this dish on Ash Wednesday to gather family and groups of friends. This typical Veronese popular recipe has transformed from a humble dish into a delicacy served as an appetizer in the best restaurants.
There are several ways to prepare smoked herring, but the oldest method involves first cooking the herring on a grill placed over coals, and after being stripped of bones, fins, tail, and head, they are seasoned with abundant oil, a bit of vinegar, garlic, and bay leaves. They can only be consumed after at least a month and a half of resting. This method enhanced their flavor and also allowed for long-term preservation. A variant was boiling the herring in water or milk instead of cooking it over coals. Thanks to being preserved in oil, the renga found and still finds its place at the table throughout the entire year.
We at Spaghetti & Mandolino also have renga, specifically the renga cooked on the grill in oil. The renghe can be served with hot soft polenta or alternatively with toasted polenta, accompanied by Soave DOC wine.
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