Don't think of it as just a passion or a pastime to leave to those of a certain age, our grandparents, or those with gray hair: foraging for wild herbs is becoming more of a trend, and chefs certainly do not disdain it. Carletti, luppoli, finocchietti, asparagini, tarassaco, and whatever else you can find: these herbs tell the story of the awakening of spring and nature.
They are highly sought after because they are rich in ancient aromas, impossible to imitate. They mostly grow in the most pleasant places, along riverbanks, the edges of old dirt roads, fields, and meadows, walls, and brambles. Now that the spring season is finally unfolding, you will increasingly see women and men, young or old, with a small bag, bending or squatting in search of these delicacies. Long snubbed, they are now back in the spotlight, and many chefs are proposing them in seasonal local menus. But which ones are the most sought after?
Tarassaco, also called wild dandelion, brusaocio, pissacane, dente di leone: its jagged leaves are topped with a beautiful flower of intense yellow color. It is excellent for cooking in a stew and eating with a drop of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, along with some shavings of a good Parmigiano Reggiano DOP that is not too aged. It is also great for frittatas and savory tarts with a bitter note.
Silene, also known as Carletto, Sciupète, Schioppettino, Strigolo: a small tuft of lanceolate green herbs with a nice soft tactile sensation. It grows along riverbanks, on the edges of white roads, and in uncultivated meadows. It is excellent for making creamy risottos because it releases an intense green color and a decidedly sweet yet chlorophyll flavor. It is also widely used for tasty savory tarts enriched with cold cuts with sweet pancetta or pieces of natural cooked ham.
Hop Shoots, also called Bruscandoli, Bruscanzi, Asparagina: these grow in the strangest places, among ruins, entwining with fencing nets, on riverbanks near rocks or stones. Wild hops should only be used at the top where it is more tender, as its stem is particularly woody. They are excellent for risottos with a sweet-salty flavor and for garnishing frittatas and savory tarts. Their shoots can also be stored underextra virgin olive oil for preservation throughout the year. They are also great for sweet and sour dishes.
Wild Fennel: it is also found at the roadside, along riverbanks, and amid the brambles of beaches and rocky shores. Who has not tried the wild fennel from Favignana? A delight! But all fennels are actually great for their intense aroma. They can be used in many preparations, from bread to focaccia, as a flavoring for white meats, for fish in stews, and for certain types of egg-based sauces. Pleasant in soups and in pasta with sardines.
Bernardo Pasquali
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