Fifty shades of... bacon!

But yes, let's take inspiration from a best seller and give it a gourmet value. That said: how many types of pancetta are commercially available? If we also look among our products, we see that this type of cured meat can be packaged and conceived in various ways. Often, it is part of the tradition of a place that, as you know, especially in Italy, means a lot. Each of our regions, in fact, produces "the best cured meat in the world," and this rivalry has shaped the history of typical Italian production. In any case, pancettas come in different shapes because the results sought are different, and the starting meats are also different.

Pancetta: it starts from the belly

Initially, all pancettas are the same in terms of shape. Normally spread out, they come from the underside of the pig, the belly precisely. In some cases, the skin is kept, while in many other cases it is removed. It is cut into slices, squared and trimmed to eliminate the less prized parts of fat. At this point, the most important objective is the preservation of the meat and the elimination of the amount of water that can be dangerous for the growth of harmful microorganisms. Therefore, all slices are salted with sea salt and in many cases, spices and aromatic herbs are also added. In some cases, the slices are also left to smoke in natural environments with fumes from olive twigs or other non-resinous woods.

Pancetta: rolled, spread out, smoked

Finally, the shape is decided. It is rolled if the slices are skinless and thus the thickness is not very wide. It is left spread out in the presence of skin and, in this case, it can be skewered or hung freely. During rolling, spices that enhance the flavor are usually added in the middle. Normally, the spread ones, or skewered, are drier since dehydration penetrates deeper into the heart of the meat, which does not happen with rolled pancettas. In any case, it is a matter of tradition.

Rolled pancettas are better for stuffing sandwiches and for being sliced with a slicer or knife. Spread out pancettas are more gourmet and are usually cut with a knife and also used to produce cubes for special sauces. Cooked and stewed pancettas also exist, although, in this case, it is a gourmet choice made in recent years.

In short, to understand the difference, you have to try them. Above all, you need to understand from which animals they come. For heavy pigs, it is worth using a spread and skewered pancetta, while for light pigs, the rolled pancetta is better. Flavors, aromas, and fragrances change significantly! On homemade bread, a slice of spread or skewered pancetta cut with a knife is better; on a sandwich or a roll, a thin slice of rolled pancetta is preferred.

The beauty of the diversity of Italian food is also reflected in its shapes and its interpretative story, and nothing embodies this result like pancetta does.

Bernardo Pasquali