/ Our magazine / Salty meat and Bresaola, taste alpine tradition delicacies.
/ Our magazine / Salty meat and Bresaola, taste alpine tradition delicacies.
Carne Salata and Bresaola, on one side the Trentino Alto Adige and on the other the Valtellina: two regions rich in gastronomic history with a peculiarity, that of processing fresh meat in brine and spices. An ancient Celtic technique that united the pre-Roman peoples of the Italian Alpine mountains. In both cases, a noble part of the beef is used, which is the fesa, but megatello or sottofesa can also be used. Bresaola also uses the punta d’anca, while for carne salata, veal tongue or horse thigh can be used (the latter more rarely).
In Trentino, Carne Salada is a must, especially in the area rising from the Lago di Garda towards Toblino, the Valle dei Laghi, and the Val d’Adige (in this article we talked extensively about carne salada). In Val di Cembra, there is a variant called Carne Fumada, precisely because smoking is its specificity. In both cases, it involves seasoned, smoked, and salted fresh meats. The Bresaola from Valtellina or Valchiavenna is named this way because it derives from the ancient name for embers “brasa”, which later became “brisa” and ultimately Bresaola. The drying is indeed achieved with braziers fueled by spruce wood coal, juniper berries, thyme, and bay leaves. The Trentino salted meat, however, is not smoked. In both cases of Bresaola and Carne Salada, the earliest writings referencing them date back to the 15th century, but they were previously the result of a conservation practice known for centuries.
The hind parts of the beef, like the thigh and back, but also the flank or the fesa, which are the tenderest and leanest parts, are generally used to produce carne salata. However, processing can also be done with other animals such as horse, goat, or pig, although beef is more frequently used. The chosen cut of meat must be fresh and whole, weighing about 1-2 kg, which is then trimmed to remove any traces of fat; meanwhile, a dry brine is prepared with salt, black pepper, juniper berries, bay leaves, rosemary, sage, and garlic.
The meat is massaged thoroughly with the herb mixture and then placed in a terracotta container, along with the herbs and pressed with a weight where it is left to rest for about 20-30 days, depending on the size, during which it is often turned, at a constant temperature of 6-8°C. To prevent the meat from drying out, it is occasionally moistened with a little white wine. Once ready, the salted meat can be consumed raw, as tartare or carpaccio, but also lightly seared in a pan, though in this case, it should be cut thicker.
The unmistakable aroma of this typical product is the result of an ancient preservation method, which makes the most of the typical environmental conditions of Valtellina. Bresaola is produced from the muscle masses of beef thigh, and the main cuts used are the fesa or punta d'Anca, the most precious piece, as well as sottofesa or magatello. The meat is dry salted in special steel tanks, once made of stone, where salt, pepper, spices, and natural aromas are added, and in some cases, typical red wine from Valtellina can also be added.
The meat is then left to rest in brine for a period that can range from 10 to 15 days; after which, the cleansing of the meat piece is carried out followed by its stuffing into natural or artificial casings. The meat piece is then dried and finally placed to age for a period ranging from 4 to 8 weeks. During the entire processing, natural chemical phenomena develop that make the meat more preservable, palatable, and at the same time more digestible. The entire production occurs in climate-controlled rooms where the temperature hovers around 12-18°C. The production of bresaola, which remained confined to the family realm until the early 1900s, is now also destined for foreign markets, such as the Swiss and American ones, where it is becoming a particularly appreciated product.
Carne salata (here you can find our selection of meats) is a piece of meat that is typically rectangular in shape, with a purple exterior and ruby red interior, very soft to the touch. The smell is delicate but strongly aromatic. It can be easily sliced with a slicer if thin slices are desired, or cut with a knife for thicker slices. The taste of carne salata is truly excellent and entirely characteristic. It is a easily digestible product and rich in proteins.
Bresaola is a raw cured meat that belongs to the large family of sliced dry cured meats and cured sausages, but which is not subjected to grinding, rolling, and seasoning. Bresaola, being a cured meat, has high sodium content and for this reason, should be consumed in moderation by those with high blood pressure. Unlike most cured meats, however, bresaola has a limited saturated fat and cholesterol content, which makes it particularly suitable for low-calorie, low-fat diets and against hypercholesterolemia.
Bresaola is also a cured meat that is very rich in proteins of high biological value and is therefore a widely used ingredient in weight loss diets and those of athletes. Regarding minerals, bresaola is particularly rich in iron, and therefore can be an excellent substitute for meat, fresh fish, and even egg yolk. It also contains good levels of potassium, phosphorus, and vitamins, especially B1, PP, and B12.
The Bresaola della Valtellina IGP is an extraordinary cured meat when it reaches its complete maturation and a delightful balance between sweet and savory. Great for the arrival of warm seasons as its leanness and aromaticity make it perfect for fresh and simple appetizers. Ideal in low-fat diets. Great for fresh rolls served with creamy and semi-fresh cheeses.
Carne salata can be enjoyed fresh in slices of about 3-4 mm or, when sliced, seared on a griddle or grill. The latter version is delicious! Fresh, it is enjoyed with a drizzle of moderately fruity Extra Virgin Olive Oil, a bit of flaked Grana Padano DOP, a few grains of mild or Marsala salt, and if we want to go all out, just add a drizzle of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena IGP. When cooked, tradition pairs it with stewed Borlotti beans with onions and their fantastic reduction created from the starch released by the beans during cooking.
Bernardo Pasquali
S&M
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