The five best wines to pair with lardo.

Pairing such a succulent food like lardo might sometimes seem almost impossible. Not only because of its greasiness but, above all, because of its intense aromaticity. Yet, it is enough to know a bit about the tradition of a people to understand what they paired with that product and to follow suit.

A lesson that comes from the Emilian people who make use of lardo battuto in large quantities for their tigelle and fried gnocchi is the custom of pairing it with Lambrusco, whether it be Salamino di Santa Croce or Grasparossa di Castelvetro. In both cases, acidity and bubbles are an excellent support for cleansing the greasiness from the palate and adapting to the intensity of the product's aromas.

For Lardo di Colonnata, in particular, a wine with body and great acidity is always recommended. Pairing it, for example, with a good Sangiovese from the hills of Maremma or a Morellino di Scansano, or a slightly more rustic Chianti Rufina is ideal.

Another wine that pairs well with lardo, especially with Lardo di Arnad, is Franciacorta Saten or Valdobbiadene Conegliano Superiore Prosecco DOCG for their versatility, both in palate cleansing and in the homogeneity of flavors that complement each other.

Tasting lardo with a Valpolicella Classico or a Valpolicella Ripasso is another solution for the many versions of lardo from the Venetian salami makers who consider it a typical cured meat, as, despite not having any certification, lardo veneto is part of the centuries-old tradition of local butchery.

Lardo was the energy of the poor and sustenance for the laborer. A good "gòto de vin" (or sip of wine in the Venetian dialect) was not denied to anyone during work to bolster against harsh and humid winters. And the typical wine was indeed a good Valpolicella Classico.

If we want, a wine that pairs well with lardo is also Barbera, both in still and sparkling versions. And here again, its ability to cleanse the palate makes it preferable over other wines. As we have well understood, lardo, for its rusticity as a product, seeks simple wines that are strongly identifiable and characteristic. Acidic and, if possible, slightly sparkling. Red with good tannin that also helps to dissolve the fats on the palate. There's no point in making strange pairings. There's nothing like lardo that demand simplicity and straightforwardness even from wine.

Bernardo Pasquali

S&M