/ Our magazine / Discover Cantiano's Visciole: wild sour cherries.
/ Our magazine / Discover Cantiano's Visciole: wild sour cherries.
The Visciole possess the flavor of memories.
The breathless runs in the green fields of the Marches. The late summer sun, those afternoons when silence is broken by laughter. Together with my grandmother, I used to gather the Visciole from the full, drooping branches of the little trees, scattered here and there. The image of those red pearls hanging down waiting to be picked is still vivid. I remember the array of jars filled with Visciole and sugar, the guardians of a traditional preparation that astonishes the palate and makes you fall in love. Therefore, I invite you to this reading, because I will take you to discover and taste the Visciole, the wild sour cherries prepared with the same passion that has awakened in me these beautiful memories.
Visciole in the sun is a traditional Marchigiana recipe that has the intense flavor of simple things. An example of the balance of a unique practice, made of patience and passion. Very often, Visciole are confused with the better-known amarene or cherries, but although they are "sisters," they differ in several aspects.
Cherry trees are distinguished by the sweetness or acidity of their fruits. There are Prunus avium, which produce sweet-tasting fruits, and Prunus cerasus that, on the other hand, produce fruits with an intense sour taste. The Visciolo belongs to the family of Prunus cerasus. It is a wild plant, strong and generous, a self-fertile shrub capable of adapting to the most challenging climates. Adorned with wonderful flowers, it has the tendency for abundant fruiting. Within the cerasus family, you can distinguish three varieties and thus three distinct types of fruit:
Amarene. They have an oval shape, with light red pulp and a slightly sour flavor. Of the three, they are the most suitable for fresh consumption.
Marasche. Small in shape, with dark red pulp and a very sour and bitter taste. Their use for preparing Maraschino is typical.
Visciole. Their shape is round, with an intense red pulp that has a sweet flavor with a sour aftertaste. They are the most suitable for producing jams, syrups, and liqueurs.
The Visciole are less sweet than cherries, but they are fruits with a rare and engaging flavor, capable of creating products that are hard to resist after having tasted them. What makes Visciole special is not just their appearance and flavor but the health benefits that such a small fruit can contain. In fact, Visciole contain several substances that are very beneficial for humans:
Melatonin. An antioxidant substance that is also produced by our brain to regulate sleep-wake cycles. It also helps prevent the effects of skin aging, as it has anti-inflammatory properties.
Anthocyanins. These are substances that counteract the painful symptoms caused by arthritis and other inflammatory diseases.
Quercetin. A substance that helps prevent heart disease and regulates cholesterol levels in the blood.
Beta-carotene. Present in high concentrations, once transformed by the body into vitamin A, it helps prevent heart and tumor diseases.
Pectin. It is a soluble fiber contained in good quantities in Visciole, which helps reduce the feeling of appetite.
Vitamin C. Found in the skin, the properties of this vitamin are essential for the body.
The organoleptic virtues of Visciole are many and it is one more reason to enhance this little-known fruit. Often, when I talk about recipes, I leave my friends speechless because they do not know this product. So, I prepare a Visciole tart and the perfect opportunity for an evening with friends arises. It goes without saying that the taste of Visciole compote leads you to discover a flavor you can't do without.
The journey that has brought Visciolo to us is enveloped in mystery and legend, but one thing is certain, this journey leads to Cantiano. In this small medieval town, you can find the cradle of one of the most appreciated varieties of Visciole. A variety registered in the official list of traditional agri-food products of the Marche Region.
If you arrive from the south, you must cross into Umbrian land, following the Flaminia, for about ten kilometers from Gubbio. Then go down the winding road that descends into the Marchigiana land, to arrive at Cantiano, 360 meters above sea level. Here grow the shrubs that produce Visciole, this rustic species capable of adapting to pedoclimatic conditions not exactly ideal for fruit cultivation.
The Visciole tree is of Eastern origin, like all cherry trees. It is likely that it arrived in Italy during the republican era, between 68 and 71 B.C., thanks to Lucius Licinius Lucullus, a Roman consul and general. It was during the Middle Ages that this ancient wild fruit was harvested and used for producing reductions and tonifying syrups, rich in energizing substances.
Unfortunately, the high costs for harvesting, which must be done by hand, and the necessary time for the unproductive phase have made the spread of Visciole difficult. Yet, there have not been lacking golden periods and enthusiasts. At the beginning of the twentieth century, this variety of sour cherries was appreciated even by the Royal House of Savoy, as evidenced by a document in which His Royal Highness the Prince of Piedmont urgently orders a large quantity.
Today, as then, the shrubs grow freely among meadows and uncultivated clearings, along the Roman road Flaminia. Visciole from Cantiano are considered the best sour cherries in Italy and the only way to safeguard their tradition lies in the skilled hands of local families.
It is passion that is the ingredient that can never be missing. The same passion that the farm Corte Luceoli, of the Tommasini family, has infused into preserving the nursery heritage of the original shrubs and plants, with the desire to valorizzare the territory.
The Tommasini family has created the largest plantation in the municipality of Cantiano, planting over 3 hectares of Visciole orchard. The artisanal processing of this ancient fruit preserves its quality and excellence, giving our palates the opportunity to relive the magic of this unique and rare product.
Perhaps, due to their rustic and wild nature, Visciole have suffered the fame and overwhelming power enjoyed by cherries and amarene. Yet, they deserve your attention for their intense and sweet taste, which makes them perfect protagonists in the creation of compotes for unforgettable tarts and pastries.
Thus, as in ancient tradition, Visciole in syrup are of boundless goodness. A flavor so distinct that it will leave you speechless. Pitted, they are preserved in their syrup, with the addition of sugar and a peel of organic lemon. The Visciole in syrup are delightful to eat alone as a dessert. Their not overly sweet taste embraces an almond-like finish with a lovely fresh and sour sensation. You will be intoxicated and will only want to start again. You can pair them with the finest Blue Cheeses or ricotta. They are excellent for making spoon desserts, such as panna cotta, bavarois, puddings, chocolate cakes, tarts, and cheesecakes.
The Visciole compote and pears with ginger flavor has a enveloping flavor that enhances the sour note of the Visciole, the harmonic tone of the Pear, and the energy of grated ginger. The compote is ideal for transforming your Visciole tart and your Visciole pastries into an unforgettable tasting experience.
Try the Visciole compote on fresh or toasted sliced bread, using a bread knife. Or you can enjoy it on toasted bread, on cakes, or spread on cookies. It is also interesting to accompany fresh and creamy cheeses, or semi-aged and aged cheeses like certain pecorino cheeses.
The Visciole Wine is a special product, a true delight for all lovers of sweet wines. It is hard to find because it is not produced in large quantities, but it represents a excellence in quality and genuineness, satisfying the most demanding lovers. It is a great meditation wine born from the skillful blend of notable Tuscan black grapes, sugar, and Visciole. The Visciole wine has a dry flavor and a ruby red color tending towards garnet. Its intense aroma of sour cherry envelops you, teasing with hints of cocoa and roasted hazelnuts. Used as a dessert wine, it pairs beautifully with cookies and with the Visciole themselves. You could also serve it with strong-tasting cheeses, such as pecorino di fossa or gorgonzola. Serve it at a temperature of 10-11° in small glasses.
You can imagine the meadows where the shrubs full of Visciole grow free and independent. Their fruit is rare and good, a flavor that surprises you and leaves you intoxicated. Did you already know about Visciole? What are you waiting to taste them? Try the Visciole compotes to garnish your homemade tart, or enjoy the Visciole tart, made to astonish the most discerning palates. Visit the store now; I am waiting to hear what you think.
Sergio Albertini
S&M
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