Salama from Sugo and Lardo: festive cured meats for Christmas

The Christmas pork tradition unites all Italians. In fact, it's no coincidence that one of the strong dishes of the end-of-year festivities is represented by cured meats strictly derived from the Po Valley, such as cotechino, zampone, bondiola, ciccioli, morette, up to the splendid Salama da Sugo ferrarese. They are all expressions of a centuries-old winter tradition that is rooted in Italian culinary history and, in particular, remains a mystery between history and legend. The ground meats from the low Po Valley and Nordic peoples, rich in fat, an unparalleled natural energy source, has remained the true expression of the festivities over time. There is always a cured meat from those mentioned on the table, perhaps even paired with other strong dishes like capon, lamb, cod, or mixed boiled meats.

Among the cured meats of the festivities, the most fascinating for its history and originality is undoubtedly the Salama da Sugo ferrarese, now certified PGI. This product has a history that goes back to the Renaissance and perhaps even earlier. Certainly, the first sources that speak of this cured meat are found in some official documents and, in particular, in a letter from Lorenzo de' Medici to Duke Ercole I d'Este, in which Il Magnifico thanks the prince of Ferrara for the delightful gift he has received.

It is a cured meat from the province of Ferrara, but, as we at Spaghetti e Mandolino know well, it is requested every year by consumers all over Italy for their sumptuous tables. Be aware that the towns that contend for the original recipe are Portomaggiore, Porto Renatico, Madonna Boschi, Vigarano Mainarda, and Buonacompra, all located in the same emilian province. The Salama da Sugo ferrarese PGI is made by grinding various parts of the pig such as neck coppa, guanciale, lean meat derived from trimming the thigh, intended for the production of ham and shoulder. Then, salt, pepper, and nutmeg are added. In some ancient recipes, especially the first known one from the 1700s by Father Domenico Chendi, cinnamon and cloves were also included. Everything was seasoned with dry robust red wine without sulfites. The Salama da Sugo ferrarese PGI is stuffed into the pig's bladder itself, in a typical round shape with a tie that suggests 8 or 12 wedges. The aging is at least one year long.

While the Salama da Sugo ferrarese PGI remains one of the original and traditional historical cured meats of our Italian cuisine, there are also other great cured meats that can become attractive elements for a successful high-quality table, especially during the Christmas season and the end of the year. Among these, undoubtedly, is the lardo, a true natural and noble energy source. A cured meat that in Italy has recipes and forms of all possible versions based on different types of cuts, aromatic cures, and aging processes. From Carrara marble, to the woods of the Aosta Valley, to the limestone caves and clay pits in the central and southern regions. Finally, the ancient oak barrels that preserve and blend the flavors of resins and typical aromas of the territory.

Among the lard, the most important on a national level are certainly the Lardo di Arnad from the Aosta Valley region and the lardo di Colonnata from the splendid village perched among the white mountains of the Apuane Alps, the marbles of the Carrara province, inspiring Michelangelo, Bernini, Borromini, Canova, and the greatest sculptors of all time. The Lardo di Colonnata PGI is one of the most prized and ancient products of Italian pork butchery. Its main value was that of an energy reserve to be consumed throughout the year, especially during the cold and long winters in the mountains. Additionally, it was the best reserve of muscle power for all the sculptors and quarry workers of Carrara marble.

The lardo is taken from the back and the thickest parts of the subcutaneous fat of the pig. It is then cut into slices and buried in marble basins with the typical aromas of its territory: pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, sage, and rosemary. The marble basins of Carrara are rubbed with garlic and maintain a constant temperature throughout the entire conservation and aging process. The basins are covered, and the process of aromatic penetration begins, which must last at least 6-10 months. Lardo di Colonnata and, in general, aromatic lardo have the most varied and occasionally unusual uses in the kitchen. Great chefs make extensive use of it for their most original and curious preparations. An all-Italian delicacy, succulent and tasty, especially typical and unique in its kind.

Bernardo Pasquali

S&M