Sausages and friarielli: one of the perfect pairings of Neapolitan cuisine. First of all, a linguistic note: they are called Friarielli, if you remove the “i” they become sweet dwarf green peppers. The history of this delicious broccoli is rooted in the culinary culture and traditions of Naples.
It is thought that in Neapolitan, friariello derives from the word frijere, to fry. In fact, one of the most common ways to use this vegetable in cooking is mild frying with garlic in a pan. The appeal of friariello lies in its flavor, which reminds one of a rustic and territorial cuisine. It has not been long since friarielli have also won over the kitchens of northern Italy. Thanks to the emergence of many authentic Neapolitan pizzerias in the colder streets and squares of the Po Valley, this little vegetable has gained popularity and conquered the most discerning palates. Alongside friariello, an excellent chunky sweet sausage is essential. The slightly bitter flavor of the greens is skillfully blended with the sweetness of the meat and the melting fat of the small fresh cured sausage.
The cultivation of friariello mainly takes place in Campania and, in particular, in the areas of Afragola, Aversa, Caivano, Cardito, Casoria, and Sant’Antimo. It can also be found in the more hilly areas of the provinces of Benevento and Avellino, in the Sarno area and in the Sele plain towards Salerno. More than a hundred years ago in Naples, the Vomero hill and Posillipo were famous for their friarielli and were indeed called “o colle d’ ‘e friarielle”.
Friariello in Naples is consumed along the streets in many ancient gatherings that we would now call street food. The sausage and friariello sandwich can still be found on the waterfront, among the narrow streets of the Spanish Quarters, in some small Ape kiosks in Piazza Plebiscito, or along via Toledo. Its aroma sometimes fills the homes of Forcella and San Giorgio Armeno, even during the Christmas season among colorful nativity scenes and red cornetti.
‘A sasicc’ è ‘a mort d’ ‘o friariell’” says a Neapolitan proverb. There is a lot of musicality in its word, and it is also for this reason that their appeal is conquering the world and not just Italy. They are ambassadors of Totò and Peppino, of the Neapolitan smorfia, and of a self-ironic culture like few others in Italy.
Sausages and friarielli require just a few very simple steps. Here is the recipe for 4 people:
Ingredients: 4 bunches of friarielli, 4 sausages, 2 cloves of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, chili pepper, salt.
Procedure: Clean the friarielli by removing the stems and the tougher leaves. Wash them thoroughly and blanch them in water for five minutes. In a saucepan, add the oil and garlic, sauté, and fry the friarielli, salting them as needed. In a frying pan, with oil for frying, fry the sausages, piercing them with the tip of a fork. Once cooked, add them to the friarielli so that the flavors meld together. Your succulent dish of sausages and friarielli is ready.
Bernardo Pasquali
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