The dairy production in Italy is undoubtedly one of the sectors where traditions and the passion for craftsmanship manifest with the greatest vigor, thus taking on a leading role among the excellences of Made in Italy in the world. Traditions, craftsmanship, passion, quality of the raw materials and an incredible creative flair are the ingredients that, together, distinguish the work of dairies in our beautiful country.
It is no coincidence that we at Spaghetti&Mandolino, as enthusiasts of typical and excellent products, have decided to specifically select for you the best cheeses from dairies across Italy that stand out for their inexhaustible desire to create always new products while also adhering to the mission of passing down the recipes and production methods of tradition. All this creativity is indeed expressed in the creation of truly unique cheeses.
We are mainly talking about aged cheeses or flavored cheeses. Two terms that, to the untrained eye, may seem synonymous but which actually refer to two different types of cheeses technically. More specifically: what is the difference between aged cheeses and flavored cheeses? Let's find out together.
The technique of aging essentially involves all cheeses that, thanks to a particular process of maturation, transform their structure and aromatic profile; this generally happens thanks to specific anaerobic conditions and contact with some natural products of plant or animal origin. This technique actually has ancient origins and was not seen as an imposition or a particular technique but simply as another method of aging cheese.
Aging is a true art and currently, unfortunately, there have been situations where commercial interests have prevailed over the cheese itself, thus trivializing a product that instead has tremendous dignity. The aging process must create new and tasty cheeses but still respect the aromatic and structural balance of the cheese itself. This is certainly not an easy task, reserved for a few realities that can create always new products while respecting traditions, without crossing certain limits that risk leading to the creation of an extremely banal product, perhaps almost commonplace.
Aging is not a random process but rather a carefully studied and executed operation down to the smallest detail. Only this expertise and the ability of the affineur to create truly unique pairings can make aged cheeses a true separate category compared to classic raw cheeses. Experienced affineurs are able to enhance, through this technique, the characteristics of the cheese: they rely on nature, the environment, temperature, humidity, and know very well the cheese-making techniques and therefore understand well what happens to the cheese during production and especially during aging. In the end, aging means starting from a high-quality toma that is then processed in specific places, wrapped with spices, aromatic herbs, hay, and so on.
A national reference point in aging techniques is undoubtedly Antonio Carpenedo, the owner of La Casearia Carpenedo, a reality that currently represents the most important brand of aged Italian cheeses. We are not the only ones saying this; it is attested by the genuine appreciation not only of critics, journalists, and master tasters, but also by that of Hansi Baumgartner, a Michelin-starred chef, a skilled affineur and a profound connoisseur of cheeses, as well as that of the legendary Luigi Guffanti.
On the other hand, when talking about flavored cheeses, we open the doors to a parallel but equally rich and prestigious universe. In this case, the process is decidedly simpler as flavored cheeses result from the addition of certain ingredients within their paste such as, for example, aromatic herbs, spices, and much more. It is also very common, unlike aged cheeses, for flavored cheeses to be fresh or at least have a short aging period.
The affineur must work the fresh cheese already produced and follow it closely throughout the aging process. They can decide, for example, to inoculate molds, immerse it in grape pomace, wine, or beer, wrap it in hay, choose the aging location they consider most appropriate, such as natural caves, cellars, and so on.
Thus, it is an operation aimed at enhancing the cheese, after understanding and extracting its intrinsic characteristics to obtain a product of the highest quality, prestigious, balanced and with a truly unique taste. Each aged cheese is therefore a unique and unrepeatable product, the result of the work, experience, sensitivity, and creativity of an expert affineur who thus imprints their signature on the product, guaranteeing recognizability and, therefore, quality.
Flavored cheeses are produced by adding certain ingredients into the paste, precisely in the initial stages of cheese-making, such as spices, truffles, or aromatic herbs. Once the shape is obtained and the desired aging level is reached, the cheese does not undergo any further processing, being characterized precisely by those elements that were previously incorporated into the mixture before creating the actual shape. A procedure that is undoubtedly simpler and less time-consuming and costly, but still manages to give us truly extraordinary cheeses.
Both aged cheeses and flavored ones are perfect for enjoying alone, even better if served on a platter in combination with mustards, honey, jams, and compotes. Flavored cheeses are generally less demanding and can also be used as ingredients in some preparations. For aged cheeses, this is considerably more difficult as they are unique and special products essentially suitable for a truly unforgettable gourmet tasting.
Ilaria Chesini
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