/ Our magazine / Mantuan mustard, an incredible flavor experience!
/ Our magazine / Mantuan mustard, an incredible flavor experience!
Mostarda mantovana, a sweet and spicy delicacy from the ancient tradition of the beautiful city of the Gonzaga. The term mostarda derives from the Latin expression mustum ardens, meaning "spicy must", which has also been translated as "burning must". This etymology is justified by the fact that grape must was often a key ingredient in the recipe. Mostarda has a very ancient origin: the first traces date back to the 1300s. At that time, mostarda was considered a luxury product, as shown by its frequent use in the Gonzaga family, the lords of the Duchy of Mantua.
To produce it, crushed mustard seeds in a mortar were combined with grape must and flour to preserve the fruit. For this reason, around 1600, the product gained popularity even among peasant families, who needed to preserve a highly perishable product like fruit for a long time. To clarify, the origin of mostarda has nothing to do with the French "moutarde".
Incorrectly, the terms are sometimes conflated, but the only thing that connects the two products is the mustard plant, whose seeds are used to produce both the sauce (made from vinegar, salt, and peppercorns) and our mostarda, made from fruit, with the addition of sugar and mustard oil.
Mostarda mantovana is not the only type of mostarda; the recipe has variations depending on the region it comes from. For example, mostarda di Cremona is made with fruit, mustard essence, sugar, and whole candied fruit; that of Parma is made with pumpkin, mustard oil, white melon, apples, quince, and untreated lemon juice.
It is very flavorful and is often used to accompany cheeses and boiled meats. That of Carpi is produced with red grapes, apples, pears, and orange peel, while that of Vicenza, made with finely chopped fruit, is particularly appreciated for accompanying many winter dishes such as boiled meat, boiled chicken, cotechino, and boiled tongue. There are many variations, but every recipe features mustard and various types of fruit.
Let's return to mostarda mantovana, known as the one with the most ancient origins, probably the progenitor among mustards. Mantova's mostarda is typically produced with quinces, mustard oil, and sugar.
Quince mostarda is part of Mantuan culinary tradition; in its preparation, the quince, a fruit with an extraordinary aroma, hard and tough flesh, takes center stage. However, due to its hardness, raw consumption is not possible, which is why it has always been used for food preparations, from the famous jam to mostarda, jellies, distillates, and even liqueurs.
For the preparation of quince mostarda, the fruit must be peeled, sliced, and soaked for 24 hours with the sugar. A syrup will be produced which will be collected and boiled, and subsequently poured over the fruit. This procedure is known as canditura, a chemical process in which the fruit gives its watery part to the sugary solution it is immersed in, and this solution transfers sugars to the fruit. The canditura lasts two or three days, ensuring that the fruit retains its texture and preserves all its properties.
Once canditura is completed, we proceed with the cooking, which lasts about twenty minutes. You can opt for a longer cooking time depending on the desired result: darker and sweeter mostarde are those cooked longer, while lighter and crunchier ones are cooked for shorter times. Once cooled, mustard is added and placed in a jar.
Among the most renowned quince mostardas, we highlight those from the Senga company, known for their quince mostardas made using the artisanal Mantuan recipe, creating a unique product to pair with grainy cheeses like Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano, but also with Parma's Prosciutto Crudo, Culatello di Zibello, or a roast pork. A true delight that can turn a simple dish into an incredible culinary experience!
The unique flavor of mostarda mantovana pairs well to complete meat-based preparations, such as stuffing in roasts or to accompany mixed boiled meats, cotechino, or cheeses. Quince mostarda is ideal to be enjoyed with cold cuts, aged cheeses, or even with vanilla or fiordilatte ice cream. Surprising, isn't it? Try it, and you will see how delicious it is!
The cheeses that pair well with this mantovana mostarda include Provolone Valpadana, aged Pecorino cheeses, Bagoss, Grana Padano, Parmigiano Reggiano, and Piedmontese Toma. The most famous historical preparation is undoubtedly the Tortelli di zucca con mostarda. Let's see how they are made! For the recipe, you will need Mantuan pumpkin, amaretti, Mantovan mostarda with its syrup, Parmigiano Reggiano, lemon peel, breadcrumbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. For the pasta, flour, eggs, and oil are used.
After cooking the pumpkin in the oven, cut into pieces, blend the crushed amaretti with the mostarda until you get a homogeneous mixture. Pass the pumpkin through a potato masher, mix in the mostarda and amaretti mixture with Parmigiano Reggiano and grated lemon peel, and mix well. Season everything with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. The breadcrumbs will only be needed if the mixture is too moist; if so, add a handful.
Prepare the pasta for the tortelli in the usual way for making homemade pasta until the resulting ball is nice and firm. Let it rest for two hours; finally, assemble your tortelli by placing a dollop of filling in each of them. Close them and let them rest. After cooking, season the tortelli only with melted butter and sage, so you can fully appreciate the filling.
Bon appétit! Do try the mostarda mantovana, it will always be an incredible taste experience: the true flavor of Italian tradition!
Antonella Iannò
S&M
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