Porchetta: a delicacy envied by the whole world.

A true delicacy of Italian culinary tradition, which offers an inimitable explosion of flavors and taste to those who try it. We are talking about porchetta, one of the most renowned typical products of Lazio and the Central regions, successfully marketed throughout Italy and famous abroad as well. An undisputed protagonist of all food festivals and village fairs, this culinary specialty boasts a long and ancient history that makes it even more unique.

HISTORY OF PORCHETTA

The exact place of origin of the true porchetta recipe remains uncertain to this day. 
The residents of Ariccia, in Lazio, claim ownership of the original recipe, presumably dating back to pre-Roman times and the Latin population. The Roman nobility often relocated during the summer season to the hills of Ariccia, where hunting trips were frequently organized and sumptuous banquets were held. It is said that Emperor Nero himself was so fond of porchetta that he made it his favorite dish.
In Umbria, however, it is believed to have originated in Norcia, famous since Roman times for pig farming (hence the noun “norcino”): even today, Costano, a small village in the province of Perugia, is known far and wide for its inimitable porchetta, one of the characteristic dishes of Umbrian cuisine. The “porchettai” of the town have passed down this craft uninterruptedly for over 500 years. 
The tradition of porchetta also has ancient roots in Campli, in the province of Teramo, Abruzzo, while in Upper Lazio, its history can be traced back to the Etruscans.

THE SUCCESS OF PORCHETTA

There are indeed numerous claims of paternity: this testifies to the incredible success that porchetta has enjoyed since ancient times across various regions of Italy.
Its glory is mainly due to its popular spread: the “porchettari” filled the squares during city celebrations, both civil and religious, and were always present at fairs and markets. Historical municipal archives reveal notices to regulate the sale of porchetta, as it was one of the most common and popular street foods.

In the 20th century, porchetta enjoyed great success in Veneto, spreading to Treviso and Padova and becoming a household product for Venetian consumers.
Recently, thanks to its unmistakable flavor, porchetta has become a famous Italian product worldwide: it was even chosen by the New York Times as one of the 5 best foods in the world, and in Canada, contests are held to celebrate it.

PREPARATION AND RECIPE OF PORCHETTA

But what is the secret to the success of this dish? Obviously, it lies in its recipe, which has remained scrupulously the same over the centuries.
The original preparation of porchetta follows this procedure: a female pig (hence the name porchetta) weighing about 100 kg is taken, seasoned by stuffing its interior with salt, pepper, and other herbs, depending on the production area.
It is then cooked for a time that varies between 6 and 8 hours at a temperature of about 200 degrees: every hour, the porchetta is taken out of the oven and covered with the “lard” rendered from the meat itself, a procedure that gives it the typical golden and crispy crust.

TYPES OF PORCHETTA

We mentioned earlier that some herbs depend on the production area. There are indeed two fundamental types of seasoning and thus flavor, both dictated by tradition. 
In Southern Tuscany, in the Roman Castles of the south, and in other areas of Central Italy, it is seasoned with rosemary. A typical one is that of Ariccia: "the pig with a bush of rosemary in its belly", as Carlo Emilio Gadda, a famous 20th-century Italian writer, wrote. 

In Upper Lazio, Umbria, and the Marche instead, it is seasoned with wild fennel, which gives it an absolutely unmistakable scent and flavor. Typical of this tradition are the porchetta prepared in Vignanello and Costano, in Umbria.

Whether seasoned with rosemary or fennel, porchetta is sold whole, in logs (the part between the third thoracic vertebra and the last lumbar vertebra of the pig), in slices, or cutlets.

NUTRITIONAL CHARACTERISTICS OF PORCHETTA

Nutritionally speaking, porchetta is a very energetic food rich in calories. This is mainly due to the presence of fats and proteins. Contrary to popular belief, it is not the crackling that is the source of all the fats (since it mainly contains proteins). The true source of most of the fats in porchetta is the portion just below the crackling, with its distinctive whitish color. 
Depending on the portion of pig being consumed, 100 grams of porchetta contain between 300 and 450 calories.

STORAGE AND USE OF PORCHETTA IN COOKING

Once purchased, porchetta should be stored at room temperature, in a cool place, wrapped in its paper, and should be consumed within the day. Traditionally, porchetta is consumed in stuffed sandwiches, as street food, in Roman-style pizza, or in Arabic bread; in the Roman Castles, it is customary to serve it with Genzano bread. It can also be cooked according to a traditional recipe that involves pan-frying it with oil, cherry tomatoes, and garlic.

Federico Risi

S&M