Ciccioli: a delicious product of the farming tradition

"Nothing from the pig goes to waste." A saying we've heard many times, one of the most famous mottos of Italian culinary tradition. Ciccioli di maiale, a humble, peasant-origin cured meat with a unique and irresistible taste, are proof that this is not just a saying.

According to tradition, ciccioli are made from the scraps of the pig: they were created to make the most of every inch of its flavorful meat, a precious resource for peasant families of the past. Today, however, ciccioli, thanks to their pleasant taste, are making a great comeback, and more valuable parts of the pig, such as pancetta and jowl, are now used in their preparation. Before discovering how they are made, let's briefly retrace the history of this traditional dish.

CICCIOLI: A CENTURIES-OLD HISTORY

Tradition has it that the ciccioli recipe has remained unchanged since the Middle Ages, with the earliest records of this product dating back to that time. Ciccioli were already present in Mantuan homes as early as 1234, a reflection of an agricultural economy that made the most of farm animals. However, pig farming has always been a common practice throughout the Po Valley, especially between Emilia and lower Lombardy: ciccioli quickly spread to farmers' tables, especially during the autumn and winter periods when slaughter traditionally took place. Although in Italian they are known as ciccioli, their original name changes from city to city.
They are called "grasul" in Romagna, "graséi" in Piacenza, "grasòl" in Reggio Emilia, "gréppole" in Mantua, and "grasooli" in Modena. The name, of course, derives from their key ingredient: pork fat.

CICCIOLI: WHAT THEY ARE AND HOW THEY ARE MADE

The preparation of ciccioli begins by taking the pork fat and cutting it into irregularly sized small pieces: these are then boiled in a cauldron over low heat, allowing the fat to melt and the water to evaporate. They are cooked in the cauldron for a long time, until the meat pieces rise to the surface of the lard, turning a beautiful pinkish color. During cooking, the fat breaks down into a liquid part and a solid part – the ciccioli – which sizzle inside.

After about 6 hours of cooking, the ciccioli are removed by straining the liquid part, which will then become the clear, savory lard used in many other typical northern Italian preparations. The cooking is tested by squeezing a piece of cicciolo between the fingers: if it releases grease immediately, it is ready, and further boiling would make them too dry. Once removed, the ciccioli are placed in a cloth and pressed in a small press to extract the remaining liquid fat, drying them completely and giving them their typical crispness.

CICCIOLI: DIFFERENT TYPES

During pressing, tender ciccioli can be flavored with various spices, giving them a more intense, spiced taste. For example, you can find tender ciccioli with bay leaf, a delicacy for refined palates, or tender ciccioli with chili pepper, a treat for those who prefer a spicy and savory flavor. The spices can be numerous, from nutmeg to cloves, from cinnamon to black pepper. They often vary from province to province, city to city, and from one producer to another: for instance, some prefer to salt them, while others do not. What is important is that the spices are well incorporated into the mixture, giving the ciccioli their unique flavor and making them a perfect snack for various occasions throughout the day.

CICCIOLATA

There is another traditional cured meat from the Emilia region that comes from the clever reuse of meat that is otherwise difficult to consume and preserve: cicciolata. This is made using a mixture of fat and cooked meat that is boiled for hours with vegetables and herbs, similar to those used for making a good broth. When it is cooked, all the meat is removed and coarsely chopped; then crunchy ciccioli, salt, pepper, and bay leaves are added, and it is cooked again for a while to blend everything together.

The still-warm mixture is then wrapped in a linen cloth, the same used by cheesemakers to extract Parmigiano Reggiano from the vats, and pressed with a wooden press to remove the excess fat. This process gives the cured meat its typical compact shape, similar to a block of granite. Although considered a “poor” cured meat, it is actually a rarity, as it is difficult to find outside the province of Parma.

CICCIOLI: USE IN THE KITCHEN

Since they are made up of more than half fat, ciccioli di maiale have a very intense flavor. Traditionally, they were served with polenta and represented a hearty meal. This pairing is still popular today, although ciccioli are now often enjoyed as a snack, especially with a glass of Lambrusco, while crumbled ciccioli can enhance the flavor of bread, pizza, and focaccia.

Cicciolata, on the other hand, is best enjoyed sliced by hand, in rather thick slices, accompanied by fresh bread or, better yet, on slices of oven- or grill-cooked polenta; or diced as a snack, served with a good glass of wine.

S&M