Of the pig, it is known that nothing is wasted, especially if what we are about to talk about is a cured meat made with its noblest parts by ancient butchers who have passed down the recipe for generations. We are talking about Mariola, a typical cured meat from Bassa Parmense, in the area of the province of Piacenza and some municipalities in the province of Cremona. On Spaghetti and Mandolino, you can find it in its raw version, which is also recognized as a Slow Food presidium because it is very difficult to age and therefore hard to find, to the point that it has seriously risked disappearing forever.
At the beginning of the XX century, it was customary in the Parma, Piacenza, and Cremona areas, around the day of the Madonna dell'Immacolata, to slaughter the pig. The pig would have reached an ideal weight of 150-200 kilograms, and the cold weather favored the slaughtering and subsequent preservation of the meats. The products obtained had to last throughout the summer and part of the following winter until the next pig slaughtering. The Mariola, due to its dimensions of wide salami, its characteristic flavor, and long aging process, was often the salami of the Christmas festivities. Its preservation was the result of experience passed down through generations. The name Mariola comes from the name of the casing used for its stuffing, the cecum, which is characterized by being quite thick and therefore particularly suitable for maintaining the aging process in the best way.
Mariola is obtained through the coarse grinding of the leaner meat from quality pigs (usually knuckle and shoulder) raised locally, mixed with minced rind to which a mix of spices is added. The breeds of pig used are typically the Mora romagnola and the Nera parmigiana, hardy breeds historically present in the Parma area. The coarse ground meat is then flavored with white wine and garlic, giving a strong and pronounced taste to this excellent salami.
Once distributed in its large and notably thick casing, the stuffed meat must be aged for at least 90 days, but can also be aged for up to a year in a cellar. This is usually the place that offers the best natural conditions to achieve an excellent final result.
It is a very particular salami that risked falling out of use due to its large size being difficult to age. If it is aged too quickly, the risk is that a crust forms around the stuffed meat, while if the aging process is carried out too slowly, the Mariola risks becoming sour and bursting inside.
This delicious cured meat has two versions: there is the raw Mariola and the cooked Mariola. The raw version can be sliced like salami, while the cooked version resembles a cotechino made with leaner meat. In the past, wealthy families exclusively requested the raw version, the one to be aged, because it was harder to find. Poorer families, unable to afford such a difficult product to preserve, preferred the cooked version. To the nose, the raw Mariola releases intense notes well balanced between the savory and sweeter parts, a delight for the palate where a long aftertaste can be savored. When aged correctly, you may find a “tear” in the freshly sliced Mariola, a sign of great nobility traceable in the oldest cured meats.
Being primarily a salami, the raw Mariola can easily be the queen of a beautiful platter of sliced meats. Thanks to its intense flavor, it will make your appetizer exquisite, delectable, indulgent, and above all, unforgettable for friends and guests at your table. The ideal pairing is with local wines such as Lambrusco or Bonarda piacentina. Both in the raw and cooked versions, it also pairs very well with crostini, cheeses, and mostarda.
If you don’t have time to search for this fantastic stuffed meat, you can find it on Spaghetti e Mandolino. This is the Mariola produced by Salumificio Angelico, a small artisanal reality that was founded a few years ago with the mission to help you discover the excellences of the Parma area.
Francesco Scuderi
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