Guanciale, the king of carbonara and amatriciana!

How many times have you witnessed discussions to establish whether a plate of pasta alla carbonara or amatriciana should use guanciale or pancetta? We believe many times. Today we'll talk about pork guanciale, a typical Italian cured meat product that comes from the jowl of the pig, one of the key ingredients of Roman cuisine. It is the undisputed star of Carbonara and Amatriciana. Saying otherwise, especially to a Roman, is almost a blasphemy, a true heresy.

Guanciale, history and characteristics of a cured meat with Abruzzese origins

After the introduction we've just given you, you might imagine that guanciale is a typical cured meat of Lazio. But no, guanciale does not have Lazio origins but rather Abruzzese ones. It was first made in the area between Amatrice and Lake Campotosto, in the province of L'Aquila. However, Amatrice, which now belongs to the Lazio region, was part of the province of L'Aquila in Abruzzo until 1927. And thus here is revealed the first important curiosity about our guanciale. Pork guanciale is derived from a cut of pork meat made from the precious fatty part, it is a noble cut that goes from the head to the shoulder. It is used both as raw salami and, after cooking, to make cotechino and zampone. Once the meat cut is obtained, which includes the rind, the processing of the guanciale proceeds with salt, pepper, and in some cases aromatic spices, followed by the aging or in some cases the smoking of the product.

Pork guanciale and pancetta, let's discover the differences once and for all

The first thing that differentiates pork guanciale from pancetta is the type of cut: as we have already mentioned, guanciale is obtained from the jowl of the pig, while pancetta, as the name suggests, comes from the belly of the pig. But the biggest differences are in the processing that is done to arrive at the finished product, differences in taste and texture that are very important for guanciale purists!
Guanciale is usually obtained from the jowl of a pig that is at least 9 months old. It is a very flavorful cured meat, in its preparation, it is seasoned externally with salt and pepper, and in some variants is also flavored with garlic, sage, and rosemary. The aging is for at least three months, during which the product develops a very intense flavor and forms the characteristic “crust” on the outside, making it slightly crunchy.
Pancetta is generally salted and aged in a cool, dry place, also flavored with various spices depending on the place of origin. Usually, it is found in the rolled type, the typical cured meat or smoked, which in English is called bacon.
The nutritional properties are also different, and consequently, so are those in the kitchen. Guanciale is fattier than pancetta and develops a greater number of calories. Often, pancetta is preferred to guanciale in cooking because it is much easier to find. Guanciale has a firmer texture and a much more intense flavor, and this is why it is used in traditional recipes for pasta alla carbonara or amatriciana.

Guanciale, here are the true traditional recipes for making pasta alla carbonara or amatriciana

Everyone has their secrets and their recipe, but today we will talk about the traditional ways to make a true pasta alla carbonara and an amatriciana. For the perfect carbonara that satisfies the "purists," the ingredients are: spaghetti or durum wheat macaroni like bucatini. Naturally, guanciale, perhaps from Colonnata, pecorino romano, one yolk per person, and one egg white for every four people, salt, and pepper. The procedure on paper is not complicated, but giving the sauce the right creaminess without cooking the egg is an art that requires practice. While the water is boiling, sauté the guanciale in a pan without adding oil: the fat released is enough to flavor the sauce. In the meantime, beat the eggs, add a little salt and pepper, and finally the cheese by whipping everything together with a whisk. Boil the pasta, take some of the cooking water and pour it over the eggs, being careful not to make everything too runny. Drain the pasta, sauté it with the guanciale in a pan, and put everything in a bowl with the egg-based sauce. Mix everything together, add a sprinkle of pecorino, pepper, and you're done.

Here is the procedure for the Amatriciana: Clean the guanciale and cut it into strips about a centimeter wide, sauté it until it becomes transparent in a pan over low heat, stirring to avoid burning it. Once the desired browning is reached, add chili, tomato, a pinch of salt, and pepper. Now let's cook our sauce by adding grated pecorino and continue mixing. In the meantime, you should have already boiled the pasta; bucatini are recommended. Once al dente, drain them, combine everything, and add some cooking water to adjust the consistency while sautéing one last time.

Francesco Scuderi