Fossa cheese: the ancient tradition of a great Italian product.

Among the numerous typical Italian products, especially from Romagna, one of the most characteristic is undoubtedly the formaggio di fossa, which is widespread throughout the area embracing the Tuscan-Romagna Apennines. It can also be found in the Marche region (where it is DOP), Umbria, and Tuscany. Discover with us the history of this delicious product, the characteristics that distinguish it, and the pairings that best enhance it in the kitchen.

Formaggio di Fossa, the history of aging underground

The technique of aging cheese underground has unknown origins, but legend has it that farmers, to escape the raids of militias and thieves, began to hide provisions underground, among the rocks, in natural or dug holes. This technique also allowed for the preservation of cheese while waiting for the harsh winter period. As often happens, chance led to an incredible discovery: the cheese, while being “hidden,” emerged different, with a stronger and more decisive smell and flavor. The practice of aging cheese underground thus became a more organized habit, and they began to build, by digging into the tuff, specific maturation holes in the shape of a flask.

Already in documents from the late 1400s, it emerges that the cheese being buried was owned by someone different from the owner of the holes: the holes were indeed rented out, paying a fee for each kg of matured product.

The cheese was produced and aged underground in the summer, during the time when there was the greatest abundance of milk. Placed in cloth bags covered with straw and hay, the cheese was hidden in the holes, which are caves dug into tuff or sandstone. After about 100 days of aging, the holes were reopened on the feast day of Santa Caterina, November 25, a custom that is still upheld today.

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Formaggio di Fossa, how aging underground occurs

Formaggio di fossa is a fatty cheese made from pure sheep's milk, already partially aged, that is further matured in underground environments at least 3 meters deep, the ancient “holes.” Each year, the hole is prepared by burning straw inside it to remove any moisture and eliminate harmful bacteria. Then, the walls are “lined” with 10 cm of straw to insulate the tuff, and tables are installed at the bottom of the cave. The cheeses are wrapped in a white cloth and stacked one on top of the other until the hole is filled. At this point, access is sealed with tarps and a wooden lid to minimize moisture transfer.

The aging process takes place for at least 90 days, during which the product loses liquids and fat. Upon opening, the formaggi di fossa will have acquired a strong and intense aroma.

Formaggio di Fossa, how the DOP designation was created

Driven by necessity, the communities of Rimini created an excellent product that is now sought after and appreciated by gastronomy enthusiasts. The European DOP certification dates back to 2009 with the denomination “Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano e Talamello.”

The oldest production of formaggio di fossa seems to belong to Sogliano al Rubicone, while Talamello is the only location where the underground aging occurs using strictly traditional methods. Another important production center for formaggio di fossa is Mondaino.

It is therefore a specialty from Romagna, also produced in the Montefeltro area of Marche and in some centers of Umbria.

Formaggi di fossa, the characteristics that make it unique

With a characteristic and spicy flavor, formaggio di fossa can be immediately recognized by its intense and pungent smell. The high percentage of fats and proteins makes it one of the most digestible cheeses, perfect when paired with honey and strong-flavored jams.

The color varies from white to straw yellow, while the taste is delicate and sweet at first bite, only to become spicier with a slightly bitter aftertaste. The flavor also changes depending on the milk used (which can be cow's, sheep's, or mixed) and the holes themselves. The aromas are very characteristic, as the cheeses take on the scent of wood and moss from the environment they are in.

Formaggio di fossa guarantees greater digestibility due to the absence of lactose and better nutritional characteristics. Its pungent fragrance makes every dish unique and unforgettable.

Finally, a curiosity: What is the difference between formaggio di fossa and pecorino di fossa? The difference lies in the milk used for the product preparation; the milk in formaggio di fossa is a mix of sheep's and cow's milk, while in pecorino di fossa, it is pure sheep's milk.

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Formaggio di fossa, how to use it in the kitchen

Pairing formaggio di fossa with other dishes is easier than one might think. Its distinctive characteristics make it a unique product, just waiting to be discovered. Some pair it with meditation wines, but this is just one of the many ways to enjoy it.

Excellent as an appetizer, paired with mustards, balsamic vinegar, caramelized figs, or even the French foie gras. It can also be used melted on bruschetta, perhaps with some honey to soften its spicy aftertaste.

Another use of formaggio di fossa is in first courses, as it is used to prepare gnocchi, passatelli, or cappelletti.

In main courses, it pairs perfectly with ribeye steak or beef carpaccio. It is also a great ingredient for enriching bread and meatballs, eggs, mashed potatoes, and tripe. The best wines to accompany it are full-bodied reds. At this point, all you have to do is order your formaggio di fossa on Spaghetti e Mandolino and comfortably wait at home for it to arrive so you can dive into delicious tastings and preparations.

Francesco Scuderi