Acquacotta: the most well-known vegetable soup of peasant origin in Tuscan tradition. A dish with humble origins, today it has become a delicacy for connoisseurs. It was indeed the meal of laborers, of those who took animals to pasture, of those who worked all day in the fields and in the evening made use of what the land provided to feed themselves: wild vegetables and hard wheat bread.
Tracing the true recipe for Acquacotta is not so easy, also because it is a typical dish from various regions, from Maremma to Viterbo, and the ingredients vary greatly based on seasonality. Surely, the recipe includes onions, celery, and basil combined with tomatoes, and depending on the season, we find chicory and wild vegetables to give substance to the soup. When possible, substantial ingredients such as pork rind or lard were also added. Today, the recipe also includes eggs, cooked differently depending on where the soup is prepared.
The origins of Acquacotta are found in the Tuscan territory, rich in traditions and habits that intertwine, linking man and land. Tuscan cuisine is known for being simple, recognized for the heartiness and genuineness of its ingredients.
Acquacotta is an ancient dish, reinterpreted and always reinterpretable; today, in fact, it is very different from its origins. Acquacotta has origins in Maremma, from which it spread throughout Tuscany and into Lazio, but also to the Marche, thanks to transhumance.
In Maremma, the origins of the dish tell stories of poverty and disease, when the land was struck by malaria, which caused numerous casualties. It was water that was the main ingredient of the dish, and for this reason, it experienced the tragedy as a protagonist. In the 18th century, important land reclamation and water channeling works were undertaken, and finally, things began to improve.
As the name itself suggests, Acquacotta finds in its name the base ingredient, water. This is why the tragedy of the disease greatly marked the history of this dish. As Mara Cini wrote in her book “Maremma cucina”: “Those who worked in the fields brought along a little pot and at noon filled it at the streams, cooking what the season offered. A head of garlic, a spring onion, some tomatoes, salt, and plenty of sliced bread.” This quote helps us understand that it is a poor dish, made with what was available. Giacomo Bulleri from Collodi described it this way: “You would take a leaf of parsley, a tomato, a leaf of celery, those two or three vegetables you found in the garden, put them in water to boil, add salt and oil. Then you would crack an egg per person and at the end you’d throw in the bread. Acquacotta, indeed: the invented dinner, the soup with what you have.” An extremely clear narrative that truly shows what the soup was originally. And to conclude: “Yesterday's bread is good even tomorrow,” a statement that makes us understand that in the recipe for the soup, bread is a substantial component.
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What is the correct terminology, Acquacotta or Acqua cotta? In fact, it is usually written as Acquacotta, which can thus be considered the correct terminology, but at the same time, the term Acqua cotta cannot be considered wrong, as the term “cotta” written separately characterizes the word water, exactly for what it is: water that is cooked with various ingredients.
The term “Acqua cotta” is probably used when highlighting the humble origins of the dish, thus boiled water with ingredients varying based on their availability, while the water represents the constant.
Acquacotta is a vegetable soup whose ingredients are gathered from the countryside; it is a poor dish, whose recipe varies from area to area based on their availability. In the most typical version from Tuscany, these ingredients are used: onion, tomato, water, extra virgin olive oil, celery, carrot, basil, homemade bread that is stale and toasted, grated pecorino, and egg.
There are many versions of Acquacotta. We recommend the most traditional recipe, the Tuscan one, which involves the use of these ingredients: celery, onion, eggs, tomato, extra virgin olive oil, salt, chili pepper, grated pecorino, and stale Tuscan bread.
Cut the onions and celery, placing them in a saucepan. Add the oil and sauté. When the onion is golden, add the tomato and water to make a cooking broth. Add salt and chili pepper, letting it cook slowly until the celery is well cooked. If the broth should reduce, add more water. When cooking is finished, add the eggs that had been previously beaten with some cheese. Wait a few minutes until cooking is complete and remove from heat. Cut the bread and place it in a serving bowl. Pour the Acquacotta over it and serve hot.
Maremma Acquacotta is prepared with vegetables picked directly from the countryside, with the so-called pane sciocco, usually made of hard wheat, all seasoned with extra virgin olive oil.
This is how the Maremma butteri carried their Acquacotta in the “catana,” the typical leather “bag”. The vegetables that make up and still make up the dish vary based on seasonality, and you can find broccoli, chicory, cabbages, green beans, or any other vegetable that can enhance the dish.
Sometimes pork crackling, or chopped lard, is also added. Often, the lard is used to flavor the sautéed garlic and onion at the beginning of the recipe preparation.
Acquacotta: from Tuscany, a traditional peasant soup, of ancient origins, and with a genuine flavor. A must-try!
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