Lambrusco: the story of a successful Italian wine

The Lambrusco is a fresh and sparkling red wine, versatile and with modest alcohol content. Its success was born primarily in the second half of the last century. Since the 1960s, production grew exponentially, and exports, driven by demand from the American market, declared Lambrusco the most famous Italian red wine in the world, earning it even the nickname "Italian Coca-Cola" across the ocean.
Behind its success lies a story that spans centuries, concentrated mainly in Emilia Romagna and Lombardia, which we will now tell you. And no, by success, we do not mean "Lambrusco and popcorn," the musical piece written and sung by Luciano Ligabue published as the second single from the album "Lambrusco, coltelli, rose & pop corn" of 1991...

Lambrusco: how the red wine "Brusco" was born

It is certainly known that the origin of the word “lambrusco” instinctively recalls the adjective “brusco.” However, the most common interpretation traces the birth of the term back to Latin “labrum” (edge, limit) and “ruscum” (wild plant), which would indicate that Lambrusco is a wild plant. But it was only in the late 1800s that a comprehensive categorization of all varieties of Lambrusco was reached.

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The credit goes to Francesco Agazzotti, who in 1867 distinguished between: Lambrusco di Sorbara, or della viola, now available in red or rosé, dry or sweet; the Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, either dry or sweet; and the Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, also dry or sweet. From these three major varieties, widespread in Modena, many other types of Lambrusco, like the Mantuan, were developed in the subsequent years. Light, honest, and sparkling, its bubbles convey joy with the first sip. The Lambrusco wine pairs well with the typical dishes of Emilia cuisine, especially the richer and heartier ones, such as boiled meats, Cotechino, and Zampone with lentils. But it is also excellent with bread and salami.

Lambrusco: what it is and how it's made

Writing about Lambrusco is far from simple; caution is required because the topic is very broad, to the point that the Lambrusco grape itself is a large family that includes many types of vines and is not, therefore, a single specimen. Lambrusco is the typical, indeed historic wine of Modena (Grasparossa and Sorbara in particular), Reggio Emilia, and also Parma. You can also find it in Mantova, in Veneto, and paradoxically even in Puglia.

Until a few decades ago, Lambrusco was a peasant wine; bunches were crushed, fermented using the yeasts present on the skins, and then bottled with some non-fermented sugar inside, which caused fermentation to restart spontaneously when winter ended and the yeasts awakened from hibernation. And voilà, as if by magic, the wine became sparkling: the so-called ancestral method. There was sediment, and bottles would explode like firecrackers at Carnival if not handled carefully or if left in the sun and heat.

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But the ancestral method of Lambrusco is nothing more than the old method used to make Champagne, when it was still not disgorged and then adjusted with liqueur d’expedition. Indeed, once Lambrusco was a slightly sparkling, cloudy, incredibly aromatic, and sharp acid wine. It was also the same old method for making Prosecco or still making Prosecco with sediment today. In Emilia, the sediment was the fixed residue of exhausted yeasts. Then came the American revolution, in the sense that the large social wineries discovered that Lambrusco was an excellent recreational drink, very approachable in terms of alcohol, pleasant, and so they began to produce it on a large scale, obviously as a sweeter variant.

Lambrusco: recipes and pairings to enjoy it in the kitchen

When talking about Lambrusco at the table, we must start with appetizers. The great versatility of this wine allows Lambrusco to be enjoyed with all the typical cold cuts of Parma and surroundings. Parmigiano Reggiano and Culatello, Salame Felino and Coppa di Parma are all cured meats that only ask to be accompanied by a good glass of Lambrusco. The ideal appetizer? A glass of Lambrusco, a platter of typical salami, and some shards of Parmigiano Reggiano.

Lambrusco also pairs well with tortellini and, in general, with all the stuffed pasta typical of Emilia cuisine, whether in broth or dry: tortelli, anolini, and cappelletti, egg noodles, and agnolotti. It’s also great with baked pasta, such as a tray of lasagna, and with risottos made with Lambrusco.
Moving on to meats, all types of boiled meats are perfect with a glass of Lambrusco. You can sip the wine with a cotechino or a zampone, perhaps accompanied by a nice side dish of lentils or stewed beans.
Finally, Lambrusco is also a wine for after meals. Pair it with some shards of Parmigiano Reggiano and a hint of mustard. In case of desserts, it's better to limit the choice to dry pastries, perhaps with a traditional Sbrisolona cake from Mantua.

In any case, even if tradition dictates it be served at room temperature, Lambrusco must be served chilled, never cold. The ideal temperature is between 14 and 16°C. Remember that on Spaghetti e Mandolino you can purchase your bottles of Lambrusco and have them delivered directly to your home!
Cheers!

Francesco Scuderi