In Italy, pasta is known to be a religion. From spaghetti to macaroni, passing through penne, mezze penne, pennette, fusilli, farfalle, eliche, lasagne, and much more, today I will talk about a particular type of pasta: trofie, the typical pasta of Liguria, an inevitable pairing with another typical Ligurian product: pesto. Trofie with pesto is a delicious dish that many have tried, but now let’s discover the history of trofie, why they are called that, and other original pairings that we are sure will not disappoint you.
The history of trofie originates from the area overlooking the Gulf of Paradise, between the towns of Sori, Avegno, Recco, and Camogli, in the province of Genoa. Trofie were born as a family product, to be made at home, until about fifty years ago when some merchants in the area decided to extend their trade to Genoa, where the term “trofie” had always and only referred to gnocchi. The success was almost unexpected and the spread quite fast.
As the requested quantity began to increase over the years, it became necessary to make improvements in the production system. Thus, the first machine to produce trofie mechanically was created in Sori, designed by Bacci Cavassa and put into operation by Pastificio Novella in 1977.
The fortune of trofie was certainly also aided by the extraordinary rise of the restaurant scene in Recco. Especially in the post-war period, following the reconstruction of the country destroyed by bombings, Recco became the gastronomic capital of the Riviera di Levante, so much so that for many, trofie acquired the name trofiette di Recco.
The production in dry form has contributed to the more recent global spread of trofie, making them transportable everywhere and storable for long periods. Moreover, the extraordinary success that pesto genovese has achieved in recent decades has also boosted that of trofie as the ideal pasta format to pair with the Ligurian sauce. Trofie with pesto are perhaps the most famous and appreciated Ligurian dish in the world.
There are various explanations as to why trofie are called that. The word seems to derive from the Genoese strufuggiâ, meaning to rub, which refers to the motion necessary to curl them by hand, sliding the dough on the work surface. The Italian Etymological Dictionary by Battisti and Alessio from 1957, however, suggests a connection to ‘tronfio’, whose basic meaning is also ‘swollen, puffy’. Finally, according to a learned interpretation, the term trofia may derive from the Greek trophe meaning nourishment, or more plausibly still, from the Latin torquere, meaning to twist.
If you are not a fan of pesto genovese but think that trofie are a type of pasta suitable for you, don’t worry: there are indeed plenty of successful pairings that can be made with this delicious pasta. For example, you can indulge in trofie with zucchini and shrimp, trofie with pumpkin and sausage, trofie with seafood, and trofie with salmon, just to name a few examples. As you can immediately notice, trofie pair well with sauces based on both fish and meat. Let your imagination run wild, and you definitely won’t be disappointed.
For those who wish to tackle the most classic recipe for trofie (here we have gathered some other recipes with trofie), namely those with pesto alla genovese, potatoes, and green beans, here’s all you need to know. We’ll tell you right away, however, that we recommend using one of the pestos from Spaghetti & Mandolino, a quick way to have an immediately delicious and high-quality sauce for your recipe.
Here is the recipe for 4 people that will require:
1 jar of pesto alla genovese
320 g fresh trofie
150 g potatoes
150 g green beans
Peel the potatoes and cut them into slices about 1 cm thick. Cut the strips into cubes. Wash the green beans, trim them, and cut them into 5 cm pieces; boil them in salted water and drain them when they are still crunchy and a nice bright green.
Put a pot with plenty of water on the stove and bring to a boil. Add the coarse salt, add the potatoes, and after 2 minutes, add the trofie.
When the pasta is cooked (fresh trofie will take a few minutes), drain it while perhaps reserving a ladle of cooking water that will be used to make the pesto more fluid. Pour the ingredients into a bowl where you will also add the green beans and the pesto; mix well, and plate the trofie with pesto, potatoes, and green beans. Buon appetito!
Francesco Scuderi
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