When we talk about Italian sparkling wines, we say Prosecco. Unfortunately, sometimes it’s mentioned when it has nothing to do with it. But this is the strength of that wine, which has become synonymous with Italian sparkling wine. However, the reality is that there are many Italian sparkling wines, and to be honest, more and more every day. In most cases, they are very good! Many are also produced in the south, with increasingly better results.
But there is one area in Veneto where the grapes grow on an incredible volcanic soil, which provides grapes with high acidity, ideal for producing sparkling wines with great freshness and character. This area is Calvarina, the highest extinct volcano in the entire Italian Alpine foothills. On its slopes, columnar basalts emerge, and the surface is crossed by black fossil lava, similar to what we are used to seeing on other active volcanoes like Etna. The winemaking tradition in this area is ancient, and the grapes that have always been cultivated here are Durella. Locals and winemakers used to call it "cagnina" or "rabiosa," terms that reflected its strong acidity, with a high malic acid content that enhances the tartness of the grapes. Until about twenty years ago, it was a still wine, mostly exported to international markets, particularly Germany, for the production of their sparkling Sekt. Producers then decided to create their own sparkling wine, and a few visionaries had already begun this effort some years ago. Among them were engineer Cecchin, sparkling wine expert Marcati, and a few others. Cecchin, in particular, focused on producing classic method sparkling wines, which still deliver excellent results. Over time, Durello production has grown and today represents an increasingly prominent phenomenon.
At Spaghetti & Mandolino, we have selected two Lessini Durello wines from Fattori. Antonio is a purist in love with his lands in Terrossa and Brenton, where he has his home and the volcanic cave for aging his wines.
The Durello Singhe is made from 100% Durella grapes and represents the essence of this territory, with a freshness and structure that is highly enjoyable. But we also recommend his 36-month Classic Method. Antonio has mastered Durella and created a product of great intensity and organoleptic appeal. A classic method sparkling wine that stands among the best of its designation. Don’t be fooled by the name Durello...these are wines of great freshness and enjoyment, with a quality that will surprise you.
A sparkling wine that should not be missing from your cellars.
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