Face to face with Vermouth

The birth date of Vermouth – at least as a merchandise category – can be traced back to a specific year: we are in Turin in 1786, in the company of a young twenty-two-year-old from Bioglio. This young man is the father and creator of this aromatic wine: his name is Antonio Benedetto Carpano, a distiller by profession who opened a successful business distributing to patrons the rich alcoholic mixture based on herbs (more than thirty in the eighteenth-century formulation).

Vermouth derives its name from one of these herbs, artemisia (more commonly known as “absinthe”): in German, this asteraceous plant is referred to as Wermut, already known to the Farmacopea Taurinense for its specific properties. From this medical treatise, Carpano likely draws inspiration to create his Vermouth, at the liquor store in Piazza Castello, giving it a sweet taste that distinguished it from the characteristic bitterness of pharmaceutical formulations.

Vermouth: a luxury product

From the late 18th century, Vermouth became known and wildly popular among consumers, even reaching the Savoy court: some “proto-regulatory” bodies aimed to protect its recipe, which varies from region to region. The first dividing line in its production is the purpose for which it is used: is it a wine consumed for its supposed health benefits or a mixture of alcohol and herbs created for the pure pleasure of the palate?

The balance increasingly tilts towards the second answer.

The second distinction created, in chronological order, is based on the color of this wine, historically white: at the end of the 19th century, the Gancia white Vermouth received an award in Chicago, while in 1903, the Isolabella company from Milan created the Highlife White Vermouth. The first production regulation arrives in the 1930s: the minimum alcohol content (set at 15.5%) and some other characteristics, part of which are still accepted today, are established. Finally, in the mid-20th century, Vermouth meets the world of cocktails, becoming known under the name of many preparations involving it (Martini, Americano, Negroni, Manhattan…).

White or red Vermouth?

After a decline in the 1970s and 1980s, Vermouth slowly regained footing towards the end of the last century, rediscovering its fame in 2010 at the Salone del Gusto in Turin. Finally, on March 22, 2017, it received recognition from the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies and gained geographical indication as Vermut or Vermouth di Torino, a typical product regulated by a regulation that also explains its different hues.

From the document, it states: “color: white (from white to straw yellow to amber yellow) and red (in all types and shades); the individual characteristics are tied to the color contributions determined by the wines and/or the flavoring substances and any possible use of caramel.”

The only “coloring agent” mentioned is therefore E150, but the long list of aromatic herbs used also contributes to the shade of the mixture: the different proportions of yarrow, chamomile, hyssop, savory, marjoram, clary sage, elderflower, thyme as well as cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, vanilla, and saffron change the color of the wine, as well as its flavor.

Conclusions on Vermouth

Historically, Vermouth has been produced using Moscato di Canelli, white wines from Piedmont, Sicily, Puglia, Romagna, and Sardinia, but there is no explicit prohibition on the use of red wines: however, if one wishes to respect tradition, white wines will continue to be preferred, and to produce Superior Vermouth, it will be mandatory to use at least 50% Piedmontese wines.