Interview with Giovanna and Federica Mascheroni Stianti | Travel Italy

The history of the Castle of Volpaia has its roots in the Middle Ages, as evidenced by the first documents that mention the village in 1172.

Long before the concept of “organic” became a trend, the production activities of the Volpaia estate were modulated to the fertile reality of the territory, with an ever more in-depth study of the vines and the soil. Today, research continues, in an environment with a unique microclimate that never ceases to give its aromas to the Chianti Classico

Giovanna, Federica: an introductory curiosity. Why are your last names in a different order?

“My father Raffaello Stianti founded the estate, initially to use it as a hunting reserve. The 390 hectares of Volpaia are covered with olive groves and vineyards for a minority of about 60 hectares, while the rest of the surface is wooded. With his entrepreneurial mentality, however, my father had to make good use of all the spaces, and so he did: he brought every portion of cultivated land to its best. When my husband Carlo and I got married, the estate was given to us as a wedding gift — I'm almost convinced that Carlo married me precisely because of the beauty of Volpaia!” , Giovanna jokes

“In the next generation, the grandfather's last name would have been lost, so in order not to forget it, we adopted the second last name. My mother is therefore 'Stianti-Mascheroni', while my brother Nicolò and I are 'Mascheroni-Stianti'”

Let's go back to Volpaia: where are we exactly now?

First of all, we are in the heart of the Chianti Classico production area, within the Sienese municipality of Radda. Historically, the name of this town is very important: Radda was the capital of the Chianti League, founded at the end of the 14th century for defensive purposes. The symbol of the Black Rooster was born right here, together with the first definition of the borders of these lands, put in writing by the Grand Duke

The room in which we are, on the other hand, before being a cellar, was a prison. The village of Volpaia was fortified and inside a castle it was necessary to have this one too.

How is family history linked to Volpaia? Would you like to tell us more about the most recent vicissitudes

Before our family, the homonymous Della Volpaia lived in Volpaia, manufacturers of clocks and armillary spheres [models of the sky, editor's note]: one of the members of this family was even a friend of Leonardo da Vinci, while the creations of one of his descendants are still preserved today in local and international museums in London, Chicago and other locations. It always has a certain effect to think about it, or to think about the fact that even our wine has reached an international diffusion just like those watches

My father acquired Volpaia and its famous wine farms at the end of the '60s, shortly before general interest in these places awakened and the depopulation trend experienced by the countryside in the middle of the century was reversed.

Did you start producing wine right away?

“Absolutely yes! As I mentioned earlier, my father's mentality was that of an industrialist: the grapes were ready for harvest, they had to be used and made profitable. Unlike a machine, Nature cannot be turned off.

In the initial phase of production, the wine was not excellent, we sold it in bulk and then focused on the grapes. However, we immediately started to export our best bottles, to make them known and make them travel: this is what Federica, who is the sales manager of Volpaia and also has her own estate in Maremma, deals

“My brother also manages an estate in Pantelleria, apparently we can't choose a house that doesn't also have a vineyard! The starting point and reference point for all of us, however, has always remained Volpaia

Stevie Kim