Interview with Giovanna and Federica Mascheroni Stianti | Travel Italy

The history of the Castle of Volpaia has its roots in the Middle Ages, as evidenced by the first documents mentioning the village in 1172. Since then, the settlement seems to have preserved itself over time and traditions, also thanks to the activity of the Stianti-Mascheroni family: for three generations, its members have taken care of the environment of Volpaia by producing vinegar, oil, and wines using organic methods, respectful of Nature and its rhythms.

Long before the concept of “organic” became a trend, the productive activities of the estate of Volpaia were tailored to the fertile reality of the territory, with an increasingly in-depth study of the grape varieties and soil. Today, research continues in an environment with a unique microclimate that continues to give its aromas to the Chianti Classico produced here.

Giovanna, Federica: an introductory curiosity. Why do your surnames have a different order?

“My father Raffaello Stianti founded the estate, initially to use it as a hunting reserve. The 390 hectares of Volpaia are covered with olive groves and vineyards for a minority of about 60 hectares, while the rest of the area is wooded. However, with his entrepreneurial mindset, my father had to make use of all the spaces, and that’s what he did: he made every cultivated plot of land give the best of itself. When my husband Carlo and I got married, the estate was given to us as a wedding gift – I am almost convinced that Carlo married me just for the beauty of Volpaia!” jokes Giovanna.

“During the next generation, my grandfather’s surname would have been lost, so to remember it we adopted the second surname. Thus, my mother is ‘Stianti-Mascheroni,’ while my brother Nicolò and I are ‘Mascheroni-Stianti,’” adds Federica.

Let’s return to Volpaia: where exactly are we now?

First of all, we are in the heart of the production area of Chianti Classico, within the Sienese municipality of Radda. Historically, the name of this locality is very important: Radda was the capital of the Chianti League, founded at the end of the 14th century for defensive purposes. The symbol of the Black Rooster was born right here, along with the first definition of the borders of these lands, written down by the Grand Duke of Tuscany.

The room we are in, before being a cellar, was a prison. The village of Volpaia was fortified, and within a castle, this was also necessary.

How does the family history relate to Volpaia? Can you tell us more about the most recent events in this place?

Before our family, the namesake Della Volpaia lived in Volpaia, producers of clocks and armillary spheres [models of the celestial sphere, ed.]: one of the members of this house was even a friend of Leonardo da Vinci, while the creations of one of his descendants are still preserved in local museums and international ones in London, Chicago, and other locations. It always has a certain effect to think about it, or to think that our wine has also achieved international fame just like those clocks.

My father acquired Volpaia and its famous wine hills in the late ’60s, just before a general interest in these areas woke up and the trend of depopulation that the countryside experienced in the mid-century was reversed. Carlo and I were given the estate and its Sangiovese vineyards, some of the highest in the area, which in turn give us incredible satisfactions, such as seeing our 2015 Riserva in third place in the ranking of the best wines of 2018, according to Wine Spectator.

Did you start producing wine right away?

“Absolutely yes! As I mentioned earlier, my father’s mentality was that of an industrialist: the grapes were ready for harvest, they had to be used and made profitable. Unlike a machine, Nature cannot be turned off.

In the initial phase of production, the wine was not excellent; we sold it wholesale and then focused on the grapes. However, we immediately began to export our best bottles, to make them known and sell them: this is what Federica, who is the commercial manager of Volpaia and also has her own estate in Maremma, takes care of.

“My brother also manages an estate in Pantelleria; apparently, we cannot choose a home that does not also have a vineyard! The starting and reference point for all of us, however, has always remained Volpaia.”

The conversation with Giovanna and Federica will continue in the second part of this episode of our podcast: cheers and see you next time!