Interview with Giovanna and Federica Mascheroni Stianti - pt. 2

In the last episode, we learned about the qualities and virtues of the Volpaia estate, its history, and its connection to the Stianti-Mascheroni family: in this follow-up, we will delve into the wines produced here, starting with their label.

Why is there a church depicted on the label of your Chianti Classico?

«It is not just any church, but a national monument declared as such in 1982: the sacred building is dedicated to Saint Eufrosino and symbolizes Volpaia unmistakably. This particular label still bears my name, but from next year it will only read “Castello di Volpaia” – collectors, consider yourselves warned!», Giovanna jokes.

And what do we find inside the bottle?

This blend consists of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. Our Reserve, on the other hand, is pure Sangiovese: in the past, white grapes were also used to produce Chianti, but they were unsuitable for obtaining a strong wine. We have never wanted our wines to be light, even though public taste is leaning in that direction now; we have always aimed for them to be good, and this has allowed us to export them to Canada and the United States.

Besides what is inside the bottle, it is important to consider the production context, which is organic and particularly delicate. It is necessary to protect the vineyard and be proactive, anticipating any issues and preventing their onset, in a continuous challenge that requires constant presence among the vines.

Does climate change influence the harvest and production? What has changed in the last thirty years?

The trend of rainfall is perhaps the most evident sign of climate difference between now and a few decades ago. Now the rain falls all at once, in a short period, saturating the soil: to counter this problem, we let the grass grow so that it can absorb and limit the damage.

Three crus of wines are produced in Volpaia: “Coltassala”, “Il Puro” and “Balifico”. Shall we talk about the first one?

Coltassala started as a table wine, being 95% Sangiovese. At that time, producers were thinking more about quantity than quality, but we chose the right clone to start from: we were fortunate to have an experienced person for grafting, who was not paid by piece rate but could focus on the agronomic practice without rush.

The remaining 5% of the blend is made up of Mammolo, a grape that would not have enough strength to mature on its own but adds a gentler touch to the wine when combined with Sangiovese. Its presence gives a floral note to the structure of Coltassala. Going back to the climate issue, if a hailstorm were to destroy the Mammolo vineyard, we would not be able to produce the blend as it is a single vineyard: fortunately, that has never happened so far.

Here at Volpaia, blind tasting experiences are also conducted: how can one recognize the difference between the wines mentioned on these occasions?

«Our Chianti Classico is more delicate than Coltassala; we can recognize red fruits like cherry within it. In Coltassala, however, one can taste fruits like blackberries or sour cherries, especially when tasting this Gran Selezione from 2018 aged in barrique: depending on the vintage, it remains in barrel for 18 to 24 months, and then continues with at least 6 months of aging in the bottle. My favorite is the Magnum; you don’t get the same results with the 0.75cl bottle», explains Federica.

«Finally, Balifico is made up of 65% Sangiovese combined with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon; it is a Super Tuscan that obviously does not follow the production rules of Chianti».

It is worth mentioning that your family was the first to use the controlled fermentation method for winemaking. Is this correct?

«Yes, we surely experimented a lot with fermentation, changing methods at least five times: we started with stainless steel, for which we quickly designed a system to control the temperature to avoid losing the aroma of the wine. We tried cement, clay, but personally, I prefer the stainless steel alternative less», says Giovanna.

Regarding the more technical aspects of vine cultivation in Volpaia, the elevation of the vineyards is striking. At what altitude are we?

The lowest vineyard is the so-called “Castellino”, at about 350 meters above sea level. The highest vineyard, however, is at 650 meters above sea level, with rocky soil that provides mineral qualities to the wine. All harvests are done by hand and are very challenging. The highest vineyard is subject to a windier climate, which is a good thing.

The temperature range between day and night is quite noticeable even in summer, as is the increase in temperature; for vineyards located lower down, this latter trend is becoming a problem. We simply harvest the grapes a bit earlier.

To discuss these and other topics, you are also part of the association of Vignaioli di Radda.

Exactly. Networking is essential for exchanging ideas, cooperation, and the positive impact on the wine market that can be achieved by combining energies.

One last question for Federica about food and wine pairings, to whet our audience’s appetite: what dish would you pair with Chianti Classico?

I often share a particular episode in which, while in Hong Kong, I asked a journalist to choose a food to pair with Chianti: he brought me a plate of boiled white fish which I stared at in astonishment, not understanding how it could be suitable for the wine… Yet I was surprised. The sauce in which the fish was marinated was rich enough to hold its own against the wine. Normally, however, I would recommend a meat dish or a spicy dish.

Thank you both for this long chat and… Enjoy tasting, dear readers!

Stevie Kim