Wines of Irpinia – Stevie Kim converses with Ilaria Petitto

The fame of the historical district of Irpinia risks being associated solely with the tragic earthquake that occurred in the area, overshadowing the natural qualities of this land and the quality of the food and wine products produced here. Forty years after the event, public attention should return to the numerous PATs registered here, from caciocchiato irpino to pecorino bagnolese, from the black truffle of Bagnoli to the trilli of Baronia, culminating in the protagonist of the conversation with Ilaria Petitto – wine.

Among the most renowned typical products of the region are greco di Tufo, taurasi, fiano d'Avellino, and aglianico, which are often tasted during blind tasting events organized by the Consortium of which Ilaria is vice president.

Ilaria, where are we right now?

We are inside the Feudi di S. Gregorio winery, located in the territory of Avellino. More generally, we are in the region of Irpinia, lush and rich in hills where our famous vineyards grow; our Consortium will turn twenty on April 24, 2023, and it is born precisely to enhance the beauty of these places and the wines produced here. Since 2003, in fact, fiano d'Avellino and greco di Tufo have become DOCG products, while the designation of Taurasi is even older, dating back ten years before (1993).

Irpinia is a historic province that counts about three hundred producers just in Avellino, divided between a few large estates and many smaller ones. Only eight locations produce greco di Tufo – Chianche, Petruro Irpino, Torrioni, Montefusco, Santa Paolina, Altavilla Irpina, Prata di Principato Ultra, and of course Tufo. The other two DOCGs are much more extensive.

It is worth mentioning Lapio and Montefalcione, the only towns where the DOCGs of Taurasi and fiano overlap. The landscape of Taurasi, however, is truly stunning!

The territory is also very varied, ranging from 300 to 1000 meters above sea level, where the grapes reach a maximum altitude of 800 meters above sea level. Fiano d'Avellino is obtained from high-altitude vineyards, often located between 600 and 800 meters; Aglianico on the other hand can be a hilly wine, slow to mature, or, as happens in Montemarano, can be situated higher up, in a cooler climate.

To communicate the denominations, we organize blind tastings so that there are no disagreements among the over 500 members of the Consortium - When having to choose about ten labels to present, it is impossible to satisfy everyone in one event!

The promotion of the territory is central for the Consortium. What are the future plans?

Unfortunately, even though we might feel lucky to be in a location blessed by tourism and known throughout Italy, it is less taken for granted that people know Irpinia. Our green oasis is just a step away from the sea, but those who come to Campania often forget the inland: we need to make a communication effort to shift the interests of travelers.

Here there are centuries of history to discover, if one wishes to pay attention to the panorama of the entire region and not just its capital or the beaches. During a two-week holiday, it's really worth spending a day or two getting to know this territory.

Returning to the wines: how do greco and fiano differ?

To me, they are very different. Fiano is semi-aromatic, with a touch of almond, dried fruit, and hazelnuts: it is a white that has aging potential, just like greco. However, the latter stands out for its minerality, body, and acidity, which are felt at the first sip. Between the two, fiano has the more extensive territory, but greco has a higher production volume, also due to its greater fame and popularity.

Lastly, Taurasi: a red that competes with the others.

Campania is known for white wines, but this red is a good card to play to challenge brands from the North. It is the latest harvest in Italy, being picked in November, under the rain, in very particular climatic conditions: currently, it is the red with the best quality/price ratio, making it an accessible wine ready to make itself known.

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