At the table during the holidays 2023-2024

Dishes and recipes; wines and sparkling wines. Biodiversity wins within the same region.

In the Center-South, the focus is on Christmas Eve dinner, while in the North it's Christmas lunch. Common to both is sweet bread: very different versions, but created to increase the calories of daily bread during times of famine.

The top ten historical pairings of Italy

As a consumer and market observatory (Ceves-Uni - Ovse.org since 1991®©), we have witnessed a clear change in habits and consumption by Italians at the table in the last two to three years.

Of course, nutrition and the wealth of offerings are in our DNA; we are enthusiasts of cooking, dishes, and recipes. The enormous number of often exaggerated television and radio shows dedicated to cooking, and especially to simply plating, proves this.

At the table, do we hold back, or are we changing? That's the question posed. The answer is affirmative, as among trends and habits, between life choices and a very cautious next generation, between older and mature consumers and a few last loyal ones… the December 2023 table seems different in its arrangement compared to just 4-8 years ago.

In summary: less ephemeral and more concrete, less choice and more characteristic unique dishes, more attention to health and less abundance, but always in search of those typical and traditional winter delicacies, albeit present in a different way, with some resilient and limited dinners at home and a more frequent dining out focused on proximity to home.

We save more at the table also due to rising costs: fruit has risen by 30-40% over 8 years, especially exotic and distant types, but vegetables are not far behind. Even bread and cereals have increased by 25-30%. Perhaps meat, in part, and fish remain within acceptable limits. Wine has increased by 10-14%, and spirits by 20-28%.

Thus, there is renunciation; we are choosing, reducing, but not skimping. Less consumption and fewer delicacies within the walls of home, more ordinary and reduced, more occasions outside the home but not on the street, not in the evening.

Here, from various reports and surveys conducted in different Italian regions, winning pairings and regional menus emerge across much of the Italian table, showing a certain respect for local tradition as well as the cultural history of the holy year-end festivities, such as the traditional fasting Christmas Eve.

If fish and vegetable pies dominate, so do white wines and sparkling wines. For Christmas, pasta, meat, and panettone or sweet bread or torrone unite tables from Aosta to Pantelleria, but in the center-south, the multi-course menu for Christmas Eve dinner with meat, fish, and many vegetables wins, while in Northern Italy, the Christmas lunch menu is more significant.

In any case, biodiversity of menus always wins

In Piedmont, agnolotti in broth and mixed boiled meat with Valdostano beef win, paired with the Alta Langa Docg traditional method by Sara Vezza, Barbera Nizza Doc by az. il Botolo, Lagrein Doc Colterenzio, Nebbiolo Dop Sommet Les Cretes.

In Lombardy, eel cooked in broth, stuffed turkey is popular in the Prealps, and stuffed capon in the Lower Po Valley, paired with a Franciacorta Docg by Giuseppe Vezzoli, Franciacorta Mirabella, and Riesling Renano from Borgo Priolo by Dallavalle.

Also, Liguria focuses on Christmas gnocchi in broth, cappon magro, and fish cooked with vegetables, paired with a Dolcetto Langhe Doc from Clavesana, and Gavi Docg from Gavi La Scolca Soldati.

In Veneto and Friuli, polenta with baccalà, tripe in broth with turnips and cotechino, but also risotto with winter red radicchio and boiled meat platter, paired with Rosso della Ghiaia Zerbaia, and Tai from Nardin Walter Vini.

In Trentino Alto Adige, canederli or knodel in broth, baked goat, and strudel, paired with St. Magdalener from Bozen, Lagrein from Tramin, Pinot Nero from Nals Malgreid, and TrentoDoc Antares from Toblino Cantina.

Emilia Romagna is known for anolini and tortellini filled with meat and cold cuts and cheese, paired with Bonarda Oltrepo Pavese and Riesling Igt from az. Agr. Finigeto.

Tuscany and Umbria, between stuffed capon and roasted chicken and goose giblets in all sauces, paired with Igt Toscana Siepi from Castello Fonterutoli, and Borgeri from Bolgheri by Giorgio Meletti Cavallari.

Lazio Molise and Marche includes pasta in broccoli broth and arzille, baccalà, and capitone in stew with fried vegetables, cardoons soup, and boiled fish, paired with Verdicchio classico Marotti, Chardonnay san Michele Appiano, Soave Classico Inama, and Lugana Doc Ca dei Frati.

Abruzzo features boiled beef or roasted lamb or cardoon boiled in rich meat broth, paired with Aglianico Dop from the Venosa winery and Cruasè traditional method from the az.agr. Dallavalle of Borgo Priolo.

In Campania, you can find capitone to struffoli, sweet fritters or mustacciuoli, paired with Chianti Santa Cristina, TrentoDoc Antares Toblino, Merlot by Cusumano, and Manzoni Bianco from La Zerbaia.

In Basilicata and Puglia, beyond boiled baccalà, cabbages and kale in broth, cime di rapa and pasta fritters with fish, and finally the sweet-sour calzone with chocolate and honey, paired with Prosecco Rosè Doc vintage Walter Nardin, Pinot Grigio from Podere del Nidran, and Passito Pantelleria Doc by Caterina D'Ancona.

Calabria features its spaghetti and broccoli, passerotti with anchovies and potatoes, spicy soppressate, and zeppole, paired with Valdobbiadene Cartizze and Vigna del Baffo Docg Superiore Agostinetto, Pinot Nero from Terlano, and Sauvignon from Caldaro Kellerei.

In Sardinia, the roasted suckling pig wins in the inland areas, as well as ravioli and gnocchetti with sausage, the famous herring, paired with Pinot Nero Doc from the San Paolo Producers, Carignano from Siddura, and Gavi di Gavi from Soldati La Scolca.

The great Sicily features hen in broth with pasta and sardines, beccafico, herring, and finally the round loaf of shortcrust pastry filled with dried fruits and sultanas, and then cassate and cannoli, paired with Grillo Delia Nivolelli Doc from Petrosino, Etna Rosso from Torre Mora, and Pantelleria Passito Naturale Dolce by Antonio Gabriele.

by Giampietro Comolli