In Roman cuisine, where every dish tells centuries of culinary history, two authentic culinary excellences emerge: bucatini all'amatriciana and coda alla vaccinara.
On this journey through timeless flavors and tasty traditions, we will deeply explore these delights, revealing the secrets that lie behind each morsel.
Bucatini all'Amatriciana are an anthem to the senses, a perfect blend of Roman tradition and culinary refinement.
Let’s delve into the history of this unmissable dish.
The origins of Amatriciana, like many ancient recipes, are shrouded in mystery.
However, a legend narrates that in 1870, in Amatrice, a brave woman named Anna De Angelis created the first version of this dish.
This first taste conquered not only the local palate but, over time, reached the glorious city of Rome.
Some scholars believe that Amatriciana is the evolution of Gricia, which originated in the late 1600s when tomato united with guanciale.
Its first written mention dates back to 1816 when Francesco Leonardi, a Roman cook, even presented it at the court of Pope Pius VII.
Contrary to common belief, traditional recipes are not untouchable. Amatriciana has undergone an evolutionary path, recorded by the chefs of the time.
The first documented recipe dates back to 1927, by Ada Boni. However, it had notable differences from modern Amatriciana: chopped guanciale, fresh tomatoes, spaghetti, and a choice of mixed cheese.
Variations followed in the 1930s, introducing pancetta, and in the 1960s, when guanciale replaced pancetta.
Chili pepper took the place of black pepper, bringing a spicy touch that won the hearts of diners.
Amatriciana, while being a culinary icon of Rome, had to fight to emerge among the food preferences of the time.
In 1960, only eight Roman restaurants out of forty-two offered both Carbonara and Amatriciana, with eyes primarily focused on the ubiquitous cannelloni.
Its canonization during the economic boom reduced variations, establishing guanciale, tomato, pecorino romano, and chili pepper as essential pillars.
Despite the variations over the years, the true recipe of Amatriciana remains a mystery: Ada Boni’s original version, the grandmother's recipe, or that of the trusted trattoria?
Coda alla Vaccinara is inspired by the laborious life of the cattlemen in the Regola district.
The name itself derives from the profession of these humble butchers, who were paid in cattle scraps, giving rise to this delicacy.
The origins date back to the 1300s, but it was in the Regola district that Coda alla Vaccinara established itself in the 1800s, becoming a poor dish reinterpreted by the Roman bourgeoisie.
The elaborate preparation of this dish, rich in stories and flavors, also made it suitable for aristocratic tables.
Coda alla Vaccinara is a symphony of flavors, composed of oxtail, braised, and a mixture of beef offal.
Originally created with leftovers, this dish enriches itself with tripe, pajata, and sweetbreads, celebrating the Roman tradition of not wasting anything.
The long braising process, with red wine and tomato, is what gives this dish its soft and flavorful texture.
These two dishes, children of history and Roman culinary genius, stand as ambassadors of the gastronomic tradition of this eternal city.
Food lovers find in these dishes a journey through the streets of Rome, among the alleys of history and the squares of authentic flavors.
Amatriciana and Coda alla Vaccinara, two essential chapters of Roman cuisine, invite us to discover the pulsating heart of this city, one bite at a time.
Angela Cordioli
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