At the table with Marco Bicocchi Pichi

We find ourselves at dinner with Marco Bicocchi Pichi, a long-standing descendant of the Tuscan families that have marked the history and culture of the region.
Sitting around an elegantly set table in a cozy room that reflects the harmony and rustic style of the Maremma, we are about to discover not only the traditional dishes of this land rich in traditions but also the fascinating stories of a family that has lived among these hills for centuries.

What are your origins? Why did you move to Tuscany?

My father's family settled in Tuscany, specifically in Pomarance (PI), near Volterra, at the end of the 18th century. In 1851, my great-grandfather Emilio was born, and the Tenuta del Numerouno in Maremma was purchased in Follonica (GR), named after the presella Numero Uno from the land registry of Scarlino and Gavorrano set up by Grand Duke Leopold, and in 2024, we will commemorate the centenary of the death of Knight Emilio Bicocchi.
My mother's family, Pichi, also has ancient Tuscan origins from San Sepolcro; the branch of my maternal grandfather Giorgio then moved to Ancona and from there to Turin, where he met my maternal grandmother, Evelina Diatto, from the automotive builders of the 1920s. My maternal grandmother was from Trento and lived in Tuscany after her marriage, giving birth to my father in Florence, where he was baptized in the Duomo.
I was born in Switzerland and raised in Milan and then in Turin, and I returned to the land of my ancestors in Maremma nearly twenty years ago at the end of 2006. Personally, I have always felt Tuscany as my land of origin but I was raised in Piedmont, where I lived from elementary school until my degree in economics and commerce and where I met my wife, a true Torinese. I returned to Maremma to work as a manager and have remained there as an entrepreneur.

Are your favorite dishes and food products linked to your origins?

I would say that the influence of my family's origins has significantly shaped my taste and food preferences. My paternal ancestors were farmers for generations, and I now manage the agricultural business in Maremma.
My maternal grandfather, a discharged military officer with the rank of general, had a degree in agriculture and was involved in food supply and agricultural production development.
Food and cooking have been part of my upbringing, with a true reverence for olive oil, bread, and good wine.

How have your professions influenced your food and wine culture?

My professional life has led me to travel and move around Italy and the world, allowing me to discover regional cuisines of our Italy and other cultures and cuisines. Among the foreign countries I have frequented most for work are France, Germany, England, and India. The richness and variety of the cuisine of the Indian subcontinent have fascinated me, and during my time in India, I was able to appreciate various Asian cuisines as well.

Have your dietary choices been dictated by work or lifestyle choices?

My food preferences were formed in my family, at convivial occasions of invites, and during work and leisure trips. However, after a certain age, I had to confront the slowing of my metabolism, with the sedentary lifestyle due to frequent movements and desk work, and I began to gain weight. At a certain point, I decided to get back in shape and consulted a nutritionist. Choosing a healthy lifestyle led me to learn new eating habits and select new products, but all without upheaval. Whole grain pasta, spelt, and barley have become part of my habits.

Which dishes would you recommend for a dinner inspired by the Maremma area of Tuscany?

The Maremma is a land of frontiers, of cattlemen, hunters, shepherds, and farmers, overlooking the sea that has been navigated since the Etruscan times. Land cuisine and sea cuisine are part of the dishes of our tradition. Personally, I believe that the experience of Maremma cuisine has some indispensable dishes.
To start, the classic Tuscan crostino with liver, the one with mushrooms, and the bruschetta with tomato and extra virgin olive oil. As a first course, the tortello maremmano filled with ricotta and the wide “marciapiede” pasta is a true classic, and the wild boar ragù pairs perfectly. For the second course, the meat depends on personal preferences, but in my opinion, the wild boar in the “peposo” version or in the “in salmì with olives” version are a joy; however, an extraordinary, more “modern” dish that can be very enjoyable is the Cinta Senese CBT (slow-cooked) finished on the stones. Cheeses, fresh ricotta, and pecorino of various aging. For dessert, the senese cantuccio (the Maremma was under senese dominion in the Middle Ages) with vin santo. The wines of Maremma require little introduction, it’s in Maremma Bolgheri, but one can also choose the Morellino di Scansano, Montecucco, and high-level IGT Toscana, such as Moris Farms’ Avvoltore and Podere San Cristoforo’s Carandelle Sangiovese Maremma Toscana DOC, by Lorenzo Zonin. Among other recommended productions are those from the wineries of the Wine Architecture circuit like Petra, Le Mortelle, and Rocca di Frassinello (all worth visiting while staying in Maremma).
Clearly, a single dinner menu is not enough to enjoy our territory, and one should not forget, for example, the Riso Maremma, the artichokes from Val di Cornia, and the catch of the Gulf of Follonica.

You have welcomed us for the second time here in Maremma; in comparison to the first time, have you noticed changes? Would you like to tell us about them?

As I mentioned, my family arrived in Maremma in 1851, and in the centenary of my great-grandfather Emilio's death (1851-1924), I am happy to inaugurate “Maremma 1851”, a tourist structure with four wonderful apartments imbued with the charm of history and Tuscan style, all the comforts of modernity, and a splendid view of the sea and the islands from Montecristo to Elba and up to Corsica.
The residences of “Maremma 1851” are located in the area of Podere San Giuseppe, which was part of the Tenuta Numerouno. The renovation of this farmhouse has engaged my family a lot to offer our guests an experience worthy of our family tradition and the love we hold for the land of Maremma.
The apartments feature beautiful made in Italy kitchens complete with equipment and a selection of dishes (Saturnia from Viterbo) and tasting glasses and crystal glasses (RCR Cristalleria Italiana, Colle di Val d’Elsa, Siena) from the best tradition of the area. Preparing meals in kitchens with hand-crafted terracotta floors, period brick vaults, or under exposed wooden beams, and enjoying local foods and wines with the view of the islands, is part of the beautiful moments and experiences that “Maremma 1851” can offer. In this inaugural year, feel free to contact us to book by writing to book@maremma1851.it

We thank Marco for his warm hospitality and for sharing with us the richness of his roots and his passion for the Tuscan land!